Kerala - Part 3

Munnar, 29.03.2016

29/01 Shells got Delhi Belly so we decided to get a taxi to Munnar rather than the 5hr death inviting bus ride. Met 3 older English guys starying at jungle view. One from Boro – small world! Journey still hairy and we had a couple of near misses, road so winding and hilly. Elodie felt sick a few minutes into the journey. Luckily we got some sickness tablets, she took one (her first time taking a tablet, did it no prob!) and then slept for the rest of the way. Chloe was amazing, just said with the IPad. Arrived around 12. Met up with Paul and Stu, girls delighted to see Nanny and Gaga. Rathath Inn is basic, a bit grubby but has hot water. You can’t complain at a tenner a night. Shells rested while we went for lunch. Not a success. The girls didn’t appreciate being served food on a banana leaf and both needed number twos and surprise surprise there was no loo. Luckily Nanny came in just at the right time and could take them back to their hotel room, they could use the loo AND have banana butties. Then we went for very disappointing "home made" chocolate. Played pottery and make up games with girls while Shells slept. Dinner with Paul and Stu at local cafe called Rapsy, full of travellers and excellent, cheap food. Mmmm after a few days of various curries it was divine to have, Spanish Omlette and chips. Girls in food heaven with egg and chips. For all 6 of us it was £5, we were to dine there for every meal out, bar one, after that (thanks Mum and Dad for introducing us to this place). Much cooler today than anytime

in last four months as very high up. Very cold during the night and no heating in the hotel. Shells and girls all slept in double bed with leggings and cardys, huddled together trying to keep warm. Shells perished so we bought hot water bottle the next day! It’s a strange feeling ‘cold’ after months of relentless heat. Heard chanting singing from the mosque at 4am, annoying but magical. Text from Dean saying Robert Taylor had died, my old boss at Our Price back in 2001-02.

30/01 Breakfast with Paul & Stu then they left, girls v sad to see them go (and Shells saying bye to her Mummy and Daddy) . We got tuk tuk to the viewpoint and walked 2.5km to Tall Trees resort past blackberry hill. Walked back as well. The scenery was stunning and it felt amazing to be walking amongst the mountains. Girls did so well bless them. Met two young German students who are working in India in Orissa for charity. Banana sandwich back at room then walked to Mount Carmel Church in Munnar. Very tiring day for the girls. Shells feeling much better. Dinner at Rapsy again, packed out more with locals tonight. Met a couple from Israel, one of whom is here for 5mths working for charity. Six guys from Bangalore in room opposite, recommended Mysore amongst others. Very cold again during night. Heard chanting at 5am. Despite the cold and Munnar the town itself being far from pretty, there’s something about it that we totally got. We decided to stay 3 nights rather than 2. We really like Pratish, the manager, he was only young but so helpful and accommodating. There was another guy doing all the work, can’t remember his name but he would bring tea and coffee to our room, more blankets, towels anything we wanted. Not a bad little hotel really.

31/01 breakfast at rapsy then tuk tuk just up the river for an hours walk through tea plantations. Wonderful and exhilarating walking amongst the tea plantations – all 13,000 hectares of them. Shells could have walked all day but girls starting getting tired so we went back to the hotel. There was a big ceremony taking place in town with a procession up to the church and lots of drums. Last day of a 12 day Christian festival political rally also taking place. The town was buzzing. So much to see. Went to tea museum which was really interesting. Learned that white, green and black tea are all from the same tea plant! Then we went on to the Chocolate Factory only to discover it was closed, girls gutted. Had a mini party in our room. Did the conga, very funny. Another fab dinner at Rapsy. We had nice chat with our waiter, Binoy, who had been looking

after us, he told us about his life, he has family in Kumily – 2 girls like us but of course he hardly sees them. He works 16hr shifts. 7am – 11pm. He sleeps above the café with the other staff. He washes in cold brrrrrrrrrrrrr water, has never used hot so doesn’t know any different and isn’t bothered by it. I was thinking if we hadn’t had hot water – and I commend Rathath Inn, they have VERY HOT water, we definitely wouldn’t be staying another night. Cold water in a hot climate, isn’t really ‘cold’ since the water in the tank is tepid. At Love Dale it wasn’t a problem, in fact it was quite refreshing and by the end of our stay we didn’t mind at all, but cold water in a cold climate, no way!

FEBRUARY 2016

01/02 Started the day with our last meal at Rapsy. Binoy, the waiter who had been serving us insisted on paying! Unbelievable generosity, since £2.50 is probably 5-8 hours work for him. Very moved by that. It never ceases to amaze me how some of the most generous people are those who have nothing. We got a taxi (Ramraj) to Ernakulam. Ramraj was telling us how his wife and parents works on tata tea plantation for 300r for 8 hours! Elodie feeling sick again but tablet helps.

She just goes to sleep. The Yuvarani Hotel in ernakulam seemed a palace compared to Rathath Inn in Munnar, food was dreadful – ooo we wished we were back at our beloved Rapsy. We’d spotted a large park a couple of km away so thought of going there but girls got caught up watching The Son of the Mask. Was just nice watching cable TV and chilling out.

02/02 Set off early for a couple of hours at the park before our long train journey back to Goa. Beautiful, clean, big, park, with huge, impressive, kids play area with a sign on the gates saying opening hours 3pm – what is it with this country?!? Girls gutted. At least local schools were using it. Got taxi to aluva since trains diverted. Found out the train stops at Chertala, where we should get off next time we go to Lovedale. Met a couple from Mumbai who have a daughter living in Phoenix Arizona. We suddenly panicked that we hadn’t been in touch with Papillon camp, our next accommodation to tell them we would be arriving in the middle of the night. We should have booked for the previous night too. Shells kept trying to call but couldn’t get through. Would we be able to get into our room without booking an early (super early) check in? Would there even be a room available for us? Our next worry was we hadn’t arranged a pick up so how would we get from station to Palolem Beach?!? It didn’t seem a popular destination – we were the only people from a 30 carriage train getting off at that stop. Sleeping arrangements far from ideal on train and we were terrified of missing our stop. We both set our alarms for 3am. Only to wake to find out we were an hour delayed. Awful waking girls, the were flat our bless them. Shells couldn’t sleep, sick with worry of getting transport and a room in Palolem at 4am!!

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