(Barely) Working Title: How to retire in your twenties

After what can only be described as “a pretty rough start” to our time in Nouméa, we rose with the sun on day two and decided that things could only get better. Last night’s restaurant disaster was offset with fresh croissants for petit-déjeuner and a particularly harsh review on Trip Advisor (Le Roof’s most read to date!). With vengeance wreaked, and happy bellies, we were soon off into town to explore Nouméa’s Centre Ville where we spent the day mooching about the markets, listening to music, people watching at Place des Cocotiers (Coconut Square), and despite promises not to wander off, continuously losing each other. For afters we visited a small island off the coast of Anse Vata bay that we had scoped out previously. This island is called île aux Canards but from the mainland it’s hard to see why. Time for an adventure!

Whilst Nouméa is rather windy, the sunshine is beautiful and warm. As we arrived at the beach we realised that the boat wouldn’t give us much protection from the ocean spray so we geared up for some involuntary refreshment!

The boat trip was a rocky one and the windsurfers took great pleasure in using our waves as ramps. Jane managed to capture some great footage of this and at some stage I’m going to pretend that it was me she was filming...

On arrival at duck island, we discovered that most of the island is a bar. What. A. Shame (Beer please).

The dead coral around the island has been used to build low level walls around the various sun beds and umbrellas. This, I suppose, is as good a use for it as any but it’s a little arresting on first glance - are we really this relaxed about our impact on the ocean’s most colourful display?

With preserving the planet in mind, we endeavoured to take care whilst exploring the marine environment via the snorkel trail. We hired some snorkels and sun beds then headed onto the beach before being accosted by a French man who yelled some very confusing instructions at us as we headed into the water.

What a beautiful tapestry there is under the water here! The ocean is so clear but you can’t quite see the full picture until your head is underneath. We saw many fish including clownfish (Nemo), parrotfish, blue chromis, various kinds of damsel and butterflyfish, the forgetful royal blue tang (Dory) and notably, not a single duck!

Given our French friend’s insistence on giving us directions, I swam for miles in the wrong direction based on what I thought he meant. It was exhausting, I nearly hit the coral about 15 times and it really ruined my relaxed island vibes. I went back in later for a different take on the snorkel trail in which I actually stuck to the path and it was really soothing.

As the evening drew closer and the island closed down, we joined a queue for the boat home. We watched more and more windsurfers take advantage of the lack of shelter from the gales that are a staple of island living. Windsurfing appears so elegant from afar but I’m sure it takes incredible strength and agility to make it so. An over-friendly local offered me a beer as we got onto the boat (and by offered I mean tried to force me to take a beer), I declined because I thought I may be in some way indebted to him and he’d follow me around forever like a puppy.

The boat trip back was even more turbulent than the way out but as it happens, New Caledonia had a much more vicious journey in store for us...

Lewis George

81 chapters

16 Apr 2020

Duck Island (sans canards)

October 26, 2019

|

Nouméa, New Caledonia

After what can only be described as “a pretty rough start” to our time in Nouméa, we rose with the sun on day two and decided that things could only get better. Last night’s restaurant disaster was offset with fresh croissants for petit-déjeuner and a particularly harsh review on Trip Advisor (Le Roof’s most read to date!). With vengeance wreaked, and happy bellies, we were soon off into town to explore Nouméa’s Centre Ville where we spent the day mooching about the markets, listening to music, people watching at Place des Cocotiers (Coconut Square), and despite promises not to wander off, continuously losing each other. For afters we visited a small island off the coast of Anse Vata bay that we had scoped out previously. This island is called île aux Canards but from the mainland it’s hard to see why. Time for an adventure!

Whilst Nouméa is rather windy, the sunshine is beautiful and warm. As we arrived at the beach we realised that the boat wouldn’t give us much protection from the ocean spray so we geared up for some involuntary refreshment!

The boat trip was a rocky one and the windsurfers took great pleasure in using our waves as ramps. Jane managed to capture some great footage of this and at some stage I’m going to pretend that it was me she was filming...

On arrival at duck island, we discovered that most of the island is a bar. What. A. Shame (Beer please).

The dead coral around the island has been used to build low level walls around the various sun beds and umbrellas. This, I suppose, is as good a use for it as any but it’s a little arresting on first glance - are we really this relaxed about our impact on the ocean’s most colourful display?

With preserving the planet in mind, we endeavoured to take care whilst exploring the marine environment via the snorkel trail. We hired some snorkels and sun beds then headed onto the beach before being accosted by a French man who yelled some very confusing instructions at us as we headed into the water.

What a beautiful tapestry there is under the water here! The ocean is so clear but you can’t quite see the full picture until your head is underneath. We saw many fish including clownfish (Nemo), parrotfish, blue chromis, various kinds of damsel and butterflyfish, the forgetful royal blue tang (Dory) and notably, not a single duck!

Given our French friend’s insistence on giving us directions, I swam for miles in the wrong direction based on what I thought he meant. It was exhausting, I nearly hit the coral about 15 times and it really ruined my relaxed island vibes. I went back in later for a different take on the snorkel trail in which I actually stuck to the path and it was really soothing.

As the evening drew closer and the island closed down, we joined a queue for the boat home. We watched more and more windsurfers take advantage of the lack of shelter from the gales that are a staple of island living. Windsurfing appears so elegant from afar but I’m sure it takes incredible strength and agility to make it so. An over-friendly local offered me a beer as we got onto the boat (and by offered I mean tried to force me to take a beer), I declined because I thought I may be in some way indebted to him and he’d follow me around forever like a puppy.

The boat trip back was even more turbulent than the way out but as it happens, New Caledonia had a much more vicious journey in store for us...



1.

The first trip: Miranda to Thames

2.

Land of the Long, White Cloud

3.

Backyard Exploring

4.

Hit the Road, Jack

5.

Under the Weather

6.

The Road of Death?

7.

An Eel called "Eel"

8.

Descent into the Black Abyss...

9.

Everybody's Going Surfing...

10.

Living in a van: is this the real life?

11.

Out with the Old and in with the New (Plymouth)

12.

Walk this Way

13.

The Great Taranaki

14.

The "Forgotten" Highway

15.

Chronicle + Art = Article

16.

Derby Day

17.

Mission Accomplished: Come on you Nix!

18.

The post-Phoenix hangover

19.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing

20.

Whanganui 2 - This Time it’s Personal

21.

Tui-many puns and Hastings

22.

The Giant Among Us & Bell Rock

23.

Acoustics, Art & A Bloody Cold Sea

24.

Napier Calling

25.

Bridget Jones' Diary - Cheese, Chocolate, Wine

26.

Land and Sea

27.

Mahia-hee, Mahia-hu...

28.

The Gisborne Identity

29.

East Cape Escape

30.

The Long and Winding Road

31.

More or Less Pork.

32.

The Land of the Rising Sun

33.

Hikurangi: Reaching New Heights

34.

Stingray, Stingray!

35.

Bay of Plenty (of Surprises)

36.

Future Reflections

37.

Birthday Part 1 - Going Off Pissed

38.

Birthday Part 2 - Going En Piste

39.

Mid-Winter Christmas

40.

I Get Knocked Down (But I Get Up Again)

41.

Job Hunting: I Need a Dollar, Dollar

42.

Busy Earnin'

43.

Hoppy Daze

44.

Making a House a Home

45.

What to expect when you’re expecting

46.

Bright Lights, Big City

47.

Feeling Each and Every Mile

48.

What to export when you're exporting

49.

Waipapa Marae: An Unexpected Welcome

50.

Tane of the Sky Father

51.

The Boy Most Likely To

52.

Go Rooster!

53.

Friday 13th

54.

Mild Orange, Heavy Chest

55.

Champions of the World

56.

Wild, Wild West (Auckland)

57.

Team Zlatan Heineken

58.

Great Expectations

59.

Un petit rendezvous

60.

Duck Island (sans canards)

61.

It’s Coming Home?

62.

Culture, init?

63.

Sue’s Turtle Garden

64.

New Caledonia - It’s a Rollercoaster (metaphorically)

65.

It’s gone abroad...

66.

Future Me Hates Me

67.

“You can’t beat Wellington on a sunny day”

68.

Te Papa Tongarewa: New Zealand’s Treasure Chest

69.

Island in the Sun

70.

Wine on Waiheke

71.

I'm Dreaming of a Really Sunny and Warm as Hell Christmas

72.

A Visitor!

73.

New Year, New Zealand

74.

Worm-tomo

75.

A Vicious Cycle

76.

Tongario 2.0: This time it's actually visible

77.

Wow Nature, you furry

78.

Whakarewarewa: Living Māori Vilage

79.

Ain't No Mountain...

80.

Hot Rodders & Hotter Weather

81.

North Shore, Not Sure

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