France/Spain 2022 (Week Two)

Against the advice of every known weather App we stayed in the Pyrenees for the next 3 days; what a great decision - it was stunning and the weather was great. Camping Cabiloros was set just a 15 minute uphill walk below Cauterets, a beautiful upmarket ski town, about 45 minutes south of Lourdes. At an altitude of about 900m, it serves the Le Lys skiing area by Telecabin and then Chairlift to about 2700m. This had to be done, particularly as both are dog friendly; the first section Daisy edged into the moving cabin flat on all 4 legsclearly suspicious of the moving floor, it must have been daunting for her I’m sure. The second and steeper section was by open chairlift, in the UK definitely no dogs allowed, here it’s fine-just hold onto them. I clung to Daisy for dear life frankly, as I’d rather be watching Forest in a red top than

dangling from a wire sat on a park bench 7000 feet up a mountain. We walked back down…that said it was incredibly beautiful, mountain top views across to the highest in the region at 3200m and glistening lakes. Both days we enjoyed walks either side of the valley with steep climbs rewarded by Pelforth Brune in the town, or cheaper also decent beer back at the site. I sense we’ll return one day.

I remained in 2 minds on which route to take into Spain and left the decision until our “big shop” in Lourdes at a huge supermarket en route. Strange place, Lourdes, it seemed to attract Gypsy types and not the Pilgrims I was expecting, Daisy got roughly swatted angrily away from a string vested overweight nomad as she tried to say hello. We headed then to the Bielsa tunnel as my chosen route, at the head of a long climb up the mountains (after deciding not to stay another day on the French side) and crossed the “border” with no issue. Camping Bielsa, shortly after, was a bit of a travellers

site in appearance and a storm swirled around threatening a downpour, we just made it there and back from the lovely small town before it dead. I gloated in my success in ordering our drinks in the non English speaking bar in the attractive and atmospheric square, set strongly and squat in this canyon.

Leaving Bielsa on a damp Friday morning (after a chat with the friendly neighbouring van who was interested in our bike carrier and asked to take photos) we coasted downhill through the Spanish Pyrenees, absolutely stunning scenery and driving the winding and preciptrous roads. Once levelled out and past the river valley and lakes south of Ainsa the scene was more industrial for a good way. Making good progress across the country we discounted 2 noisy looking Aires at Flix and Asco, that is after taking a leap of faith following the SatNav taking in sleepy agricultural villages served by the most pot holed road ever; causing us to swerve and zig zag for mile to avoid them.

We settled on a quiet looking Aire at Ginestar, the assumption of quiet was wrong as it turned out. It was located at the edge of the village (4 bars, all shut) at the intersection of tracks serving the vineyards and therefore a meeting point for a huge fleet of tractors, trailers, farm workers and the like; all using the service point to wash the grapes, their cars and themselves. As being situated next to a park and the fields it was also a dog walking spot; more so after dark. A particularly inquisitive lady got more than she bargained for, walking close alongside the van staring in through the side door she got me in full glory resplendent with all lights on and fresh out the shower, just in my boxers sat legs akimbo cooling down. Another van, Spanish, arrived at about 1:30 am decided to go up on ramps on the spot on level, concrete pitch, to loud musical accompaniment and much shouting. This went on for an hour or so, and once quiet again we were shortly awoken by the market setting up in the adjacent park!

The surrounding countryside on our short leg to the coast next day became more interesting again, with great roads following beautiful river valleys and green hills again before joining the AP7 and our first glimpse of the Mediterranean. We turned up earlier than the “allowed” check in time of 17:00 at our first planned longer stay destination, Bonterra Park in Benicassim. It’s a big site, well known for Brits over wintering (not quite Bargain Loving Brits in the Sun; as the rate for a few days before ACSI kicks in was eye watering but we reluctantly sucked it up).

Bemused at the contract I was asked to sign, committing in blood that Daisy would not pee or poop on the site. It’s a huge place and the walk to the entrance and the only grass I could find was long, she’d touched cloth long before the undignified pooh spot in the middle of a busy traffic island. Poor pooch.

The site is 5 minutes or so walk down to the beach (No dogs, so Daisy was proper miffed and pulled insistently toward it, ready to make a bolt for the sea given the chance. She even walked up on the low wall, like a hand holding toddler would want to. First few days were leisurely, getting washing done, finding our bearings and seeking out coffee and beer stops. It feels probably a bit too built up for our normal taste, but not overly so. The town has enough amenities to keep us going, albeit a typical modern square layout with no old streets, although the Parroquia Santo Tomás in the Plaça Constitució does date back to the 18th century and is worth a look. It was a little further down here an elderly Spanish lady tripped in front of us, with no one around and not able to communicate my first aid stopped at giving her a scrappy tissue to tend her nose bleed. She was fine though, shaken but ok.

Sunday we took a cycle ride along the adjacent track, a lovely ex railway line which followed the coast through cuttings, tunnels and afforded great views of the rocky coastline toward the busy town of Oropesa. Weather is great, in the 30’s seems to cloud over early evening a little and sleeping in the tin box requires more wine and many fans and windows open.

I do feel lucky and fortunate to fulfill a long held plan to spend an extended time in Spain, it’s took us 12 days to amble down and we’ve got until the end of October so plenty more exploring to be done. Next stop still unknown.

I’ll close this week with an update from our CCTV at home. Katie, Ellie and her friend Chelsea staying at ours over the bank holiday. No problem with that of course, other than at about 4:30 am this morning an alarm sounds waking me. Checking the camera I see one of them seemed to leave. Went back to bed to hear the story from Katie that this was actually a friend of a friend who

needed a place to stay “after work” (Tracey said he looked dressed for work). Turned out he gets undressed for work, being a male stripper, cocktail waiter. Think we’ll turn the camera off!