France Part Six - Week 6

Nights out this trip - 46
Miles -
Sites - 9
Aires/Pub Stops - 3

We decided to treat ourselves to a meal out on the Tuesday evening at the campsite restaurant (which was nice to be fair) fish and chips with red wine, cultured people that we are. Meal was ok, other than Mrs H’s fish not properly cooked, no qualm replacement within a minute tells a story though. Enjoyed the wine more on reflection. Bizzarly on one of the several nights we visited to test more wine there was a gathering of about 30 French all in fancy dress,

no idea what was happening but it was entertaining watching one particular pissed up elderly lady struggling to stand up.

There was a stunning sunset that evening, with the day consisting of not much more than a pleasant hour on the beach at Argeles Plage, where Daisy added to her growing international following latching onto a Swiss family who happily through a stick into the very wavy, choppy sea in an effort to drown the poor pooch. Friendly chap though. Worth noting that the walk to the beach was through an area called Racuo lined with plenty of bars open in the summer in a sun trap avenue.

Wednesday was very windy as per forecast, but still hot and sunny and as the town was very sheltered we were happy to bag a front line beach seat for a few Kirs at the Petit Cafe in the sun. During this laid back day we came to a decision to move on next day and head toward the Dordogne for a few days.

Thursday morning came, sun was out, sky was clear and blue so I thought bugger that we’re staying. The joys of Motorhoming in Europe out of season, no grumpy wardens or fully booked sites.
We fancied a coastal path walk toward Port Vendre and back over the hills, so we donned our boots, rucksacks and walking poles; tramped the paved road into the port, then fancied Tapas so got no further. Must have looked a right pair of Pratt’s. We enjoyed the meal though, especially the local Catalan specialty of the area Boquerones en vinagre which I was sceptical about (preferring fried), but were delicious. Restaurant was packed and notably tables of local Gendarmerie, if it was good enough for them we thought. Chez Puyal was the name of it, if you’re in the area.

On the Friday we fancied trying to climb up to Tour Madeloc on our bikes,

which apparently is a hilltop medieval watchtower built in 1285 and 650m above sea level. We just about made it, which was an amazing experience with incredible views all around over vineyards and over toward Spain. Understandable why the tower was built as such a vantage point. The last section up to the tower was just too dicey with me having Daisy in the Buddyrider, and the contents of a small cottage in the rucksack on my back. This last section was very steep and stoney, with brakes on and all weight on the back wheel I could feel the bike heading back down the hill like Laurel & Hardy’s piano. That said we can still claim it, we did 25km and 782m of ascent. Memorable also was the friendly greetings and chats with other (real) cyclists and walkers of all nationalities.

That evening we headed for the bar again (having earned our adult beverages), with the amiable French family of owners getting to know us as regulars. At 10pm closing we were last in, getting a cheer from them all as we finished our

carafe. They followed us out, doors locked lights out the second we left, too polite to tell us to piss off home.

During our stay at this fabulous site, ridiculously priced in summer; bargain out of season, we made friends with a lovely English couple who’d moved to northern France 9 years ago and moved south to this area (up in the Pyrenees)recently. We spent a few hours with them over our stay and exchanged details to stay in touch, and perhaps visit their Air B&B on our travels. Nice genuine people, Jo & Dave and we enjoyed their company.

As with all sites there are visitors from all countries, French of course but many Swiss, Dutch, Germans and Belgians in the main. On taking Daisy for one evenings stroll for toilet duties, I was enthusiastically called a Nob End several times before I realised we were being wished Guten Abend.

Having made the decision to definitely move on Sunday, we needed some supplies so the Saturday was a coffee, shop, Kir day bumping into Jo in the town for a chat. Overall another chilled day.

After 9 nights here we left, first saying our goodbyes to our friends and neighbours we moved on, again without a firm plan other than a general direction of travel north. This week’s travel journal is then written in our first Camping Car site at La Canourgue, which is a charming mountain village north of Millau and it’s well known viaduct bridge. Bugger all open here on Sunday to be honest, but very nice. Site was easy to access and we now have the card to access their network of locations.

Plan tomorrow to head toward Bourges for a couple of nights, and the excitement of finding a vet for Daisy’s repatriation paperwork. See what week 7 brings