The first thing we saw as we made our way through the nagging tuk-tuk drivers and away from the bus was the expansive, glimmering waters of the Mekong River in the early morning sun. It immediately cheered us up. The walk to our hostel was a very hot and lengthy one, but at least the awakening energy and sights of the city kept us smiling. Finding out (to our dismay) that check-in was strictly only at 2pm, we left our bags at the hostel and made the long walk back to the river promenade, to enjoy a buffet breakfast at a cosy bar joint. The rest of the day we spent reading and swimming at the hostel.

That evening we ventured out and explored all the roads, eventually reaching the river promenade again; and then we settled down for many a beer and delicious street food. The promenade is lined with many little cafes and two-storey restaurants, each boasting a brilliant view of the river below.

The next morning we visited the hill after which the capital was named; and then quickly meandered through the old mall. We spent the afternoon swimming and reading in the pool, before heading out for a really lovely supper at a local restaurant. There are so many side streets and odd corners, all housing lovely little restaurants and shops.

Tuesday morning was dedicated to visiting the two places that told the horrific truths of the Khmer Rouge’s tyrannical reign. Unfortunately, our morning plans were thwarted owing to a lack of funds and two-hours of searching for an ATM that would accept our cards. After having a lengthy swim in the pool, we were however refreshed and ready to try again.

Our first stop was the Tuong Sleng Genocide Museum, a building that was a school before the Khmer Rouge had turned into one of the worst prisons that had been in operation during their reign. The atrocities that were committed against the Khmer people were sickening – the rulings of an insane dictator. This museum visit was followed up with a ride to the Killing Fields, which was the site of mass graves and millions of Khmer corpses. The prisoners of Tuong Sleng were sent here by the truckloads to be executed, following their torture and forced ‘confessions’. It was a really grim fieldtrip, but a very necessary one to understand the history and pain of the local Khmers.

Poor William had his work cut out for him, for navigating the chaotic traffic of the city was no easy task. With barely any traffic rules, he did a really odd job at avoiding the local cars and getting us to our destinations!

Our evening was a very relaxed one – we swam, had supper, and then spent hours talking to a fun couple from Bristol, UK. The next morning we grabbed our bags and made our way to the bus station, hoping to catch the bus to Kratie.