We were dropped off at the Chaya Hotel Sunday night, which is one of the oldest, inexpensive hotels on the city. It reminded us of the old, large, many-corridor hotels that one reads of in India. After settling into the hotel, we decided to treat ourselves to a decent supper at a quaint restaurant. Our first taste of Cambodian cuisine was delicious: Battambang curry and beef loklak. A very necessary treat for two exhausted travellers.

The next morning we decided to explore the city’s streets, which are numbered in quite an amusing fashion. Streets 1, 2, and 3 run parallel to the river, whilst streets 1.5, 2.5, and 3.5 run down from the river. Makes for easy navigation! The city is still rich in French colonial architecture, which makes for some decent sight-seeing. We had breakfast at the market, and then nibbled some goodies from a bakery near our hotel for lunch. Most restaurants in the area are actually set up to raise funds for various projects, which make visiting them interesting stops along one’s walk.

The first day in Battambang was actually a very relaxed one: we walked about town, ate at the local spots, and had beers at a corner restaurant. The strenuous activities of the day before had left us a little worn-out, and we retired early.

Tuesday morning saw us on a scooter again, map in hand and ready for sight-seeing. A lot of the main attractions and rural beauty of Battambang lies outside of the city centre, and so we had to rent a scooter. Our first stop was a famous Wat, which due to entrance fees we could only appreciate from the outside. We then visited the ‘Well of Shadows’, which is a very depressing monument commemorating the thousands that were imprisoned, tortured, and executed by the Khmer Rouge on the grounds of that particular Wat (which had actually been turned into a prison). The depictions and stories gave harrowing accounts of what the victims had been subjected to.

A local winery was next on the list; and it was rather amusing to witness their take on a Shiraz and brandy (which was not pleasant, truth be told). We then made the long drive to the famous caves of Battambang, which included the bat cave and killing cave. To our great disappointment, we could not enter to see most of the caves and the Wat (ticket purchasing issues); and so we just explored the area and waited for the bat cave to come alive.

It took two and a half hours of patient waiting, but finally the little animals popped out of the cave in their hundreds. Definitely a unique sight to behold! Exhausted after spending the entire day on a scooter and in the sun, we treated ourselves to a pizza at a lovely restaurant/gallery, and then ended the evening with a beer or two.

Our bus to Siem Reap the next morning was very delayed, but eventually we made our way to the famous town.