Auvergne / Loire

Everyone in France raves about the Auvergne.

We departed Decize after some good advice from the Tourisme office.

We stopped for a chat at the local Tabac and found the owner playing a guitar. He keeps it there for his customers to strike up a tune. I had visions of a bunch of kiwis launching into a round of Ten Guitars and livening up proceedings. In summer they close off the road in front of his Tabac and have live bands and BBQs.

We followed a small back road for about 2 hours before re-joining le

canal latéral à la Loire at Diou.

The following 35 kms were fully paved and beautifully smooth. At lunchtime we spotted a marmot swimming along the bank before disappearing presumably to its nest. We spent the whole day with the wind on our backs, and the biggest hill for the day was the bridge over the canal. We averaged 15.4 kmph over the whole day which is our best ever.

At Digoin we stayed at the Hôtel Rond-Pont, which is outside the Auvergne. The Hotel was ridiculously good value and easily the best we have stayed in despite it being so cheap. They advertise a COPIOUS breakfast and they were not joking. I ate several chunks of baguette, 2 croissants, yoghurt, honey, in fact anything that did not move.

The morning was drizzly and overcast and after finding the voie verte we followed the former railway line for 40 kms. Recently sealed, it was as smooth as a baby’s bottom. We crossed back over the Loire yet again and in the middle of the river was a flotilla of swans.

At Briennon we stopped for a coffee and the owner was a Clement Auvergne (rugby) supporter. They sit atop French rugby at the moment. As soon as he found out we were kiwis he proudly showed off his ALL BLACKS flag which he was given last year by some kiwis who happened to stop by. Jose Gear plays his rugby there as well as several other kiwis.

At the town of Bénisson-Dieu there is an old abbey. The building construction has changed character yet again and a lot of brick is apparent as well as patterned roofs.

Our hosts for the night was Jean-Charles. They purchased an old farmhouse so have hens, sheep, and a pet frog in their back yard.

Quelle chance!

Friday night is Apero night. We spent the whole evening eating delicious aperitifs cooked by Christine, rather than a meal. It was fantastic. We got to sample a huge range of foods including small fish, lightly fried which had been caught by Christine’s father a few days ago, and stuffed mushrooms. Some of their good friends came over as well and the evening passed way too quickly. We hope to be able to host some of his children should they decide to visit NZ one day.

After some quick repairs to the bikes, we now have tubes into which we can place our flags for quick removal should the need arise. Jean-Claude and his family were wonderful hosts.

The morning was warm and sunny. After a short ride to Roanne we stopped for lunch beside a fountain. I said hello to a man walking past with a guitar on his back. As soon as he spotted Sally’s guitar on the bike he showed us his guitar and gave us a performance of flamenco music and some bars of Concierto De Aranjeuz. Another man came over and joined in the conversation and gave us some great advice on where to go and what to see along the way. These interactions must happen every day throughout the world and today it was our turn. Music is a universal language.

By now the sun was so hot we were down to just one shirt. We found our way to our hotel which is clean and tidy but otherwise nothing to write home about.
Easter Sunday started with phone calls to Priscilla ( Sally’s mum), her brother, and her sister. We spent the day ambling throughout town and generally taking things easy. Tomorrow is the first big hill climb on our trip so we have recharged our batteries in preparation.