South Wales

We crossed the Severn River Suspension bridge 30 year ago on our bikes and today we did it for a second time. Today was more pleasant as they have opened a new bridge which has reduce traffic volumes so the ride was less noisy. Last time we stopped to watch a group of Morris dancers vent their anti-English spleen, but not this time.

We followed a cycle route, lots of small roads and got lost before going past a massive golf course ( or was it actually 3?), The sun was very hot and we took refuge in an airconditioned supermarket for half an hour before tackling the road to Pontypool. It was a nightmare dual carriageway road and we were happy to make it alive. We asked

around for accommodation but as there was none we set off for a campsite 15 miles away. Pontypool is very depressed and the shops were old and tatty. The youth in the town hung around waiting for something to happen.

We crossed Ebbw Vale river at Crumlin, another very depressed town, and headed up into the hills. What a killer. It just went straight up for about a mile. SAlly got to the campsite about 20 minutes before me and had put the tent up by the time I arrived.

I went to get a treat from the camp store but no one was there to take my money. It operated on an honesty system. The till was wide open and you put your money in and took out your change. I was flabbergastered that such a system existed anywhere in the world.

The next day we decided to continue heading up. At Manmoel the

road turned to gravel and we entered the Manmoel Common. It is one of those rare gems of offroad beauty you stumble across occassionally. The horses all looked wild, the sheep were moulting their wool and the scenery was just stunning. We deambuled across the common until we hit the Head of The Valleys Road. Fortunately there was often a cycle way alongside so we spent little time on the busy road.

However just west of Merthyr Tydfil we had no choice. There was only one road. And it was super busy. At one point a police car pulled up alongside and told me I was not allowed to push my bike on thst road and that I had to exit at the next opportunity which I dutifuly did. But as it was the only road, we returned and walked our bikes through the long grass alongside the road until we got to the cycle trail again.

We dropped down into Abadare where our hosts for the night were

Linda and Pete. We were fed a diet of Pasta and Chicken, And some secret ingredient! It was wonderfuel! The next day Sally had to keep up with me for the first time in about six weeks. Linda should bottle it and sell it.

I fulfilled a childhood dream that day.

At school I had read about the Welsh Valleys and the coal mining. I can still see its green and black cover.
We were treated to a free TIKI tour, by Pete, who was a former engineer at the last mine to close in the 1980's. He took us to old coal mine sites, which had now been bulldozed level and turned into nature reserves.
We were given a lesson in mineralogy which explained why Wales was such a good place to set up steel factories.
And to finish off we were taken to the top of the road to see the valley

in all its glory.

I will be forever grateful for that wonderful evening in Abadare.

The next day was all downhill and we stopped for lunch at Neath in a church ground. We reached our campground for the day but after seeing it we pushed on instead to Llanelli. Sally's chain seized and was rescued by a passing cyclist who guided us through town to the small village of Furnace where we found a small campground at the top of a massive hill.

The next day was to be one of the highlights of the whole tour. We got up early and found our way to the Furnace Rugby Club where we watched the first test of the NZ vs Wales rugby game at Eden Park. Every time Wales scored the sound was deafening and every time the All Blacks scored we just smiled at each other. The Welsh were fantastic hosts and as we left the gentleman sitting alongside Sally kissed her hand.

Later that morning we got talking with a local and he had been at Cardiff in 1953 the last time that Wales beat the All Blacks , and also at Llanelli in 1973 the last time a Welsh club side beat the All Blacks. We also found 2 others who had been at the Llanelli game, one of whom stood on the roof of the turnstile to watch the game.