Beauly to Crask Inn

We made Dingwall where we stocked up with three days of food and bought a replacement can of gas for the cooker. Then along the A9 to Evanstown where we turned off and headed into the hills . At lunch we chatted to Preston who had had a major bike accident a couple of years ago. He was going down a step hill when the front mudguard broke and jammed his wheel. He went head over heels and required 13 months of facial reconstruction. He was lucky not to be killed or paralysed. It did not phase him though, as he is back on his bike ( but I suspect with no mudguard).

Our target was Aultnamain Inn but when we got there it was very

windy, cold, and raining so we pushed on. After reaching the summit we had a stunning view of the Dornoch Firth and we dropped back down to sea level. At Ardgay we found a community wood in which there was a new gazebo so we camped along side it and used it to keep our bikes dry for the night. Several dog walkers said hello as they wandered past.

Coffee was first on the agenda at then we crossed the Bonar bridge and once again headed up into the hills. At Lairg we stopped at the tourist office and recharged the computer for 2 hours while we warmed up and dried out. Earlier at we passed the “Caste of Spite” which was gifted to the Scottish YHA back in 1947, but I am not sure if they still own it. I suspect not. http://www.express.co.uk/life-style/property/496711/Castle-of-Spite-Scotland-Sale-London-Flat-Price-Property

We climbed ever so slowly up the river valley and it reminded us of the desert road in the middle of the North Island in New Zealand. Eventually we made it to Crask Inn, a village of just 2 houses. We asked to stay in the bunkhouse but it was full so he offered us to camp on the lawn. When we enquired the price – free. Later he offered us the summer house where there was a pull out mattress on the floor so we accepted. Again it was free. We decided to have a beer and the next morning Sally treated herself to a cooked breakfast for just 6 pounds.

We got to dry our tent in the generator room for an hour, and spent the evening chatting with the locals and guests in the bar. The 3 farm dogs played with us and then dried themselves in front of the peat fire. One was an absolute hoot.

Dinner for the guests all came from the garden or off the farm. Lamb, beef and venison. The only thing not off the farm was the eggs. A fox had eaten theirs a year ago. The owner was trying to sell the Inn for the last 2 years, but he also had 1500 acres and 120 sheep and 20 cattle. The low numbers were because of the mostly boggy terrain.

We both loved the experience of Crask Inn and it will be one of our favourites memories fo the whole trip. In fact everyone here to whom we mention the Crask Inn speak of the owners with the highest regard. He is well loved in these parts.