Luberon - Provence - Van Gogh

We decided early on in our planning to have a few days rest around the south of France. So it was with great anticipation that we headed off towards the Luberon. The Mistral was gusting to over 50 knots so we regularly had to stop. On one hill with a 1.5 m drop along side we walked until it was safe to continue riding. We passed several delightful villages along our route to Isle sur la Sorgue, which is a beautiful but touristy village. The streams through the village are feed from the Sorgue river which has is source about 10 kms away.

We found a small hotel to put down roots for a couple of nights and rode into town for a quick look. The next morning we loaded up just one pannier and took off on a local cycle tour.
First up was Fountaine du Vaucluse which is the source of the Sorgue river. The spring comes straight out of the bottom of a 200 m cliff and the water crystal clear. There is a weed which grows in the stream which makes the water look emerald green. I have to thank Sandy and Thibaud for suggesting we visit this part of France. It was stunning.

Then we took on the route to Gordes. This was Valentine's suggestion. The road got steeper and steeper and eventually we decided it was time to walk. Around the corner it got to about 15 % and around the next corner it was closer to 20%. At the top we stopped for lunch under an apple tree in full blossom.

For the first time on our trip we were reduced to a T-shirt and shorts. Long may it last. While eating lunch we looked in the sky and could see 7 planes all headed in the same direction. We guessed it was towards the USA. During lunch we counted a total of 13 planes .
Gordes is listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. It deserves its moniker. It clings to the side of the hill like a swallows nest on a cliff, The descent was fast and furious and we arrived back at our hotel for an early sleep.

We had hoped to find a Gite where we could stay for at least 3 nights but there were none along our intended route. We still plan to stop for another break when we can find suitable accommodation.

If you want to go on a cycle tour for a week or so in France choose Luberon / Provence and La Carmague, For us it beats the Loire any day. There is some uphill and downhill , but you get stunning views

and wonderful villages.
The next morning we departed for St Rémy de Provence. It was only 40 kms for the day so we dawdled along with the warm (20 degrees) wind on our backs taking it really easy. After all Luberon is supposed to be a place of repos.
We arrived at the meeting point 2 hours early so we took the chance to have a break and type up the blog. At regular intervals walkers and cyclists would greet us with a Bonjour while we we lazed in the sun.

Our host for the night was Nadège and once again we were the first guests. She had only been available for 4 days when we fired off our request and was very pleased to have someone stay so soon. She rode to met us at at a café and then lead us through back roads to her house in the country.

Dinner was the best tahini I have ever eaten in my life. By dint of good luck we had earlier made a detour up a long gravel road to buy some organic wine as a gift. As she only drinks organic wine it was an inspired choice. We have got into the habit of buying wine we have tasted along the way to give to our hosts as a small thank-you.

Van Gogh

During the evening she helped us plan a route through the Carmargue for the next 2 days. The next day we followed a cycle way into St Rémy de Provence where the main road out of town lead past the infirmary where Van Gogh spent a year. As it happened Nadège also worked there as it is still serving people with psychiatric problems today.

The road was lined with Van Gogh prints, and it was really exciting to read about his works ( in his own words) then look up at the same scene 120 years later.

Nothing had changed. The hills were the same. the olives looked the same, the fields looked the same and the pines looked the same. All that was missing was a starry starry night. And we got to visit purely by accident. Sally knew Van Gogh lived in this area for a while but did not know exactly where.

Incredible.

For the first time in my life I realised how difficult it is for a painter to capture the essence of a scene, Photographs just cannot capture the majesty and the joie de vie in such everyday countryside.
We also took the opportunity to visit Van Gogh's room at the infirmary which is now a museum. It was sparse and barren but the view out his window was just stunning. You could see how he was

easily inspired to paint the local flora.

At the shop downstairs there were lots of paintings done by the current patients which would adorn any wall in New Zealand with honour. The garden outside exuded a peaceful calm which I have not struck anywhere else in France.

After our repose we tackled an enormous hill over the Alpilles where yet another tasting resulted in wine for the evening meal. We lunched in a beautiful town square which was 90 % full of cafe tables, so we felt a bit like outsiders but did not really care as it was such a beautiful day. The afternoon took us to Arles where we checked out accommodation for the night and then headed off into the Camargue.

As we came to the top of the hill by the bull fighting arena a voice rang out. Bonjour les Kiwis. At least someone knew our flag! Of course they did. It was 2 kiwi couples taking an extended vacation around France and England just like us but in a campervan and Gites. It was nice to practice our English for 2o minutes and to talk about home.

Our first stop turned out to be a dot on the map, not a town as expected and the hotels there were non existent. After asking at a local Tabac we found the nearest hotel was still 16 kms away so it was nose down bum up for about an hour. Sally lead the way and did great job of getting us through yet another sticky patch, The hotel looked awful from the outside but was beautiful inside.

The next day we headed into the heart of La Camargue.