If, after these visits, you have a craving for art of a different kind, spend a few hours at the Belém Cultural Center, a complex of halls designed for conferences, exhibitions and performances, and then head to the extremely hip LxFactory, an industrial labyrinth of street art, cafés and creative shops. Then it's time for some history. Perched atop Lisbon's highest hill, São Jorge Castle towers over the city like a fairytale fortress, with battlements and ramparts (it's especially beautiful when lit up at night) - but the view from the highest point, over the old town and the Tagus estuary, is equally mesmerising. If you're in a historical mood, check out Belém Tower, a 16th-century fortress that teeters on the edge of Lisbon's coast, then head for the magnificent Ponte 25 de Abril, a huge suspension bridge that links Lisbon to neighbouring Almada. Not to mention das praias (the beaches) and the surfing! No wonder many fall in love with Lisbon.

But enough about what you can see, taste, smell and feel. Speaking of feeling....