The Amazon

DAY ONE 1/21/19

So day one in the jungle and I’m surviving although holy hell it is so humid, and there’s a ton of bugs EVERYWHERE. Definitely not something I’m used to, but I am here to push my comfort zone and that’s what I’m doing.

I’ll come back to the good parts of the jungle at the end because how we got here was a bit depressing. My day started around 4:45am. I took my last full comfort shower, and I was on my way to campus around 5:40. Our first mode of transportation was a bus from campus to the Quito airport where we took a 30 minute flight to Coca. Coca is the last “city” before you reach the Amazonian region. When we arrived in Coca, the airport was tiny so we stepped onto the tarmac. As soon as we stepped out a wall of humidity slapped us in the face. After we got our bags from the one baggage claim in the whole airport we got on a 5 minute bus ride to a nearby hotel. During the drive, I observed that Coca was definitely a lot poorer than parts of Quito. What surprised me was the amount of stores it had. They had everything from a lot of clothing stores to a Moped dealership.

After reaching the hotel, a few of us got a continental breakfast that included juice, tea, bread, fruit, and eggs. It was really good and all for 3 bucks. We were at the hotel waiting for our canoe boat for about 40 minutes. Our boat came and everyone from my class piled in. While we were at the hotel, a group of students from Amsterdam joined us, and they are now at Tiputini with us as well. Our boat ride lasted just a bit over an hour, and we arrived at an oil concession owned by Repsol. This is where the trip to the Amazon gets a bit depressing...

A guy that worked for Repsol scanned our bags and checked our passports...not sure why, but it was the protocol so we obliged. Now at this point, we are supposed to be in the jungle but it felt far from that. A chiva (which is an open bus) picked us up from the Repsol facility, and took us on a nearly two hour bus ride on the Maxus access road. This road has fragmented a huge part of the Yasuni National Park. The natives that live in Yasuni are called the Huoranis and they only made contact about 30 years ago. At one time they were killing everyone that came onto their land until missionaries came and preached God to them. The missionaries brought in disease to the tribe, and a lot of the Huoranis died. The missionaries were sent in by oil companies and while the missionaries gathered the entire tribe in one area, an oil company moved in. This started another war between the Huoranis and big oil. This all was awhile back because now the Huorani are living somewhat peacefully with what the oil companies are doing with their land. At one point the oil companies were spreading the waste oil literally on the Maxus access road which would then run off directly into the river which killed birds and ended up polluting the Huorani’s water source. Anyways, as we were on this Chiva driving through what should have been a dense rainforest felt more like a back road. You could see where old access roads are because there was no growth whatsoever, but you could tell they were no longer used. As we got to the Tiputini river the forest was so much more dense than that in the Yusani National Park. The whole point here is that the oil extraction in the amazon is decreasing the amount of habitation for species that normally live in the Amazon. Seeing the structures and tanks built by Repsol along the route to the Tiputini River was disheartening. I found all this information from a documentary we had to watch before traveling to the amazon. It ended by saying “The oil reserve in the Amazon is valued at 1.5 billion dollars. It’s enough to fuel every car in America for 13 days.” 13 days...the amount of destruction and structures that have been put up is all for 13 days worth of oil. My mind was blown and not in a good way.

To recap after my rant, we went from a bus to a plane to a short bus ride, to an hour long canoe ride (that was supposed to be 2 hours, but because the river is high we could go a lot faster), to an hour and a half long chiva ride featuring a good bagged lunch. The chiva brought us to the Tiputini River where we got onto another canoe. This canoe ride was 2 hours long and the final destination was Tiputini Research Station. We arrived around 2:30pm making it a seven and a half hour traveling day.

Along the Tiputini River, I saw river dolphins, a toucan, several huge spider’s nests, a lot of different birds. Some people were lucky to spot howler monkeys but I wasn’t one of those people. I’ll have my chance I’m sure!

Once we arrived to Tiputini we got an orientation on the general rules, and then we could explore around by ourselves for a couple hours. I was in a weird state where I was in complete awe of the fact that I am living in the Amazon for 5 days. At the same time, I was sweating profusely and swatting away bugs, so I began to question what I have gotten myself into. Luckily, there is an AC’d library here to preserve the books so I can use it as a sanctuary if it’s broiling out and I have free time.

Around 8pm today, we took a night hike with a guide named Froyelan. I figured this would be similar to the night hike we took in Santa Lucia. As a side note. I’m glad we had Santa Lucia to warm us up for the Amazon. I think it definitely helped prep me mentally. However, this night hike was not like Santa Lucia night hikes. Our guide took us off the trail at one point, it freaked me out to no end, but he basically lives in the jungle so it’s his territory and I told myself just to trust him. When we went off trail we went down towards a little river and it was EXTREMELY muddy. I ended up grabbing on to my friend Mohamed as I jumped over the river onto mud. I felt so bad but I stuck the landing and didn’t make either of us fall. However, I took a couple steps forward and we had to climb up a steep little hill. I fell so hard and my entire left leg from the knee down was covered in mud. In the moment I was pissed cause I kept struggling to get up, and I may have let out a couple cuss words. I’d say in the moment they were warranted as my hands were covered in mud as well. Now as I write this I’m laughing to myself. I guess this was karma for congratulating myself on not falling when we went to Santa Lucia. On a positive note, and once I got over my digger the hike was great. We saw two little snakes, a tarantula, a banana spider, a scorpion spider (which was as big as our hands), several frogs, a couple huge grasshoppers and caterpillars. At one point our guide had us shut off our headlamps for about 2 minutes. All of a sudden there were glowing dots everywhere on the jungle floor. These were illuminescent mushrooms! It was so cool and walking during the day you’d never even notice them. We all broke off into small groups so there was only five of us and a guide. He didn’t speak English, but for the most part I could comprehend what he was saying in the most basic form. Luckily, two guys in the group know Spanish pretty well so I was able to ask them if I needed something translated. At first I was over night hikes completely, and even more so after my fall. However, once we saw the two snakes, and the glowing mushrooms it made the night for me. And now I’m laughing at myself so I’d definitely go on another night hike.

Overall, this place is gorgeous and truly an oasis. These couple days will fly and I’m sure at times I will miss the comforts of a house. We have toilets that flush and showers in our cabins which is very comforting. However, I’ve already seen a couple big bugs and that makes me paranoid as far as sleeping goes.

DAY TWO (1/22/19)

Today we were up and ready for breakfast by 6:30. I woke up with two bug bites and I wasn’t too happy about that. I left Santa Lucia with none, so I started wishing I was back there a little bit. Right after breakfast a group headed out on a hike and my group took a boat ride to a trailhead. Once we were there we hiked a bit to an oxbow lake. Oxbow lakes are formed when a river gets really high and finds a new channel. When the water levels of the river recede a lake of stagnant river water is formed. When we got to the lake a canoe was docked, so our guide hopped in and so did the rest of us. He paddled us around the entire lake for about 40 minutes. It was absolutely gorgeous and made the two bug bites worth it. There were tons of birds flying around, and lots of vegetation. Somehow our guide was able to maneuver the entire canoe through parts of the lake that were dense with vegetation without hitting a single thing. It was truly impressive. After getting back to the trail we then hiked for about an hour and a half back to the station learning some things from our guide as we went.

On the hike back I had a good amount of time to think which may not have been the best thing. I started to think about my friends that are in the marine track and how I miss them lots. They are all on their coast field trip til Saturday, and I haven’t seen them since last Wednesday before I left for Santa Lucia. I also started thinking about people in my track, and the 2 girls that I talk to most on field trips are taking the rest of their classes on the marine track. The two girls left on my track for the remainder of the semester are fairly close with each other and one of them is way too much for me to handle, so I’ve been trying to keep my distance as much as I can. In my head, I just have it built up that my friends in the marine track will forget about me since I’m not in any of their classes. I was also thinking about my next module and how I’m really hoping more girls come in so I can enjoy people in my classes more. Don’t get me wrong we have quite a few guys in my track and they’re all really funny so it’s comforting knowing I at least have them. Basically, I just want to leave here with a handful of friends that I stay in contact with for years to come, and so far I don’t think it’s gonna be anyone in my track (except maybe Mohammed since he goes to Bowdoin and it’d be easy to see each other). I know all of this may sound asinine but it’s what was running through my head. Now that I’m writing this I realize there’s 2 of my friends coming in to take some people, politics, and environment courses. So the next course I’m in will have better people in it which I’m thrilled about.

Back to the jungle...I’m liking it here more today than yesterday. It just took me a bit to get used to the humidity and all the different bugs flying around everywhere. However, I definitely could not be one the scientists that stay out here sometimes for 3 months at time. That will never be me and I’m completely fine with that. As far as the Galápagos goes, I haven’t even been there yet but that’s a type of place I could see myself staying to do research. I just dislike being damp and soggy 24/7. I’m thrilled I get to spend 5 days here completely disconnected (although I would like to text the rents right about now). There’s not many people that could say they got to spend a week living in the Amazon Rainforest so for that I’m very thankful.

After lunch today, we took a rest and then a my group headed out for a hike while another group climbed a tower that overlooks the canopy. Then after awhile we switched places. While on the hike, we saw wooly monkeys, and a huge tortoise. Since the river is so high part of the trail is flooded, and when we came to a large tree that acts as a bridge part of it was submerged. SO, our guide asked us if we wanted to go anyway. I was leaning towards no just because I didn’t want to have wet boots the rest of the hike. However, I didn’t voice my opinion because I was indifferent. Soon enough we were crossing the bridge, and the water ended up filling my boot and coming up mid-thigh. The rest of the hike the water kept my feet cool and the whole experience was pretty funny. All in all I’m glad we crossed the trail.

We eventually made it to the canopy tower, and we had to climb up probably over 50 flights of stairs to reach the canopy platform. It was so worth it because we saw two macaws flying side by side, a toucan, and several other green parrots. The bugs at the top were absolutely wild and they were dive bombing my face, ears, and eyes. I applied so much bug spray I probably gave myself cancer, but it calmed the dive-bombing down. After spending about an hour at the top of the canopy we headed to dinner.

We closed the day off with a talk from Tiputini’s director. He spoke about camera trapping and how it has been so beneficial. It allows them to learn all about the different species living in the forest without being invasive. Over dinner a girl in my group called my name and introduced me to one of the students from the Netherlands. Her name is Britte and apparently she will be at UMaine in 9 days. She’s doing research there for 6 months to get her masters. I ended up telling her all about UMaine and I actually think we’re going to

connect when I return home!

It was a busy day but tomorrow we’re going piranha fishing and I am really excited. Who knew that’d I’d be stoked to fish for piranhas lol.

DAY THREE (01/23/19)

Today we were up for 5am since we had to meet at 5:30 to make the hike over to the canopy tower for sunrise. We got bagged breakfasts that included a PBJ sandwich and a cheese sandwich. They weren’t bad but now it’s 10am and I am already ready for lunch. In the tower, we saw a howler monkey, scarlet macaws, a falcon, hummingbird, and a piping guan which is a really weird looking bird. It was pretty cool and it was worth waking up early I’d say. Although hiking around afterwards I was pretty exhausted. Descending from the canopy tower, I turned to go down the next flight of stairs and then all of a sudden there’s a BANG....my brand new Camelbak bottle I bought to replace the one that got stolen plummeted from hundreds of feet in the air to the forest floor. When I almost reached the bottom of the tower I spotted my bottle in the bottom of a bush. I recovered it and luckily it only had a small dent at the bottom, other than that we were in the clear. I was relieved I wouldn’t have to pay another $25 for a water bottle.

We headed back to camp and then Diana and I went on a hike with one of the guides named Santiago. We all paired up because we have to present on a topic tomorrow, so Diana and I are doing symbiosis. On our hike, Santiago pointed out several trees that house ants which provide protection for the plant against other insects. After returning we did some research and wrote down some thoughts and headed to lunch.

Post lunch, we went piranha fishing and floating down the river! We didn’t catch any piranhas which was kinda disappointing, but at the very same time I was happy because we were gonna be in the same area floating down the river. While we were fishing, we observed some Tamaran monkeys. They are really small, almost the size of squirrels. We saw some Howler monkeys the day before and there’s some wooley monkeys that have been hanging around the station. Seeing monkeys in the wild is so exciting and it never gets old. When it was time for the float, I was planning on staying in the boat especially because of the show River Monsters, and just parasites in general. However, everyone on the boat besides 2 or 3 people went in. So I did it...I swam in the Tiputini River in the Amazon Rainforest. And I lived to tell the story (knock on wood). It was a really cool experience and being with all the people on my track was really cool. As soon as we got back I showered (which was amazing) and headed to dinner.

After dinner we all attended a talk by Hans Steege (I think that’s his last name) he is one of the professors with the students from the Netherlands. He gave a talk on the number of trees and tree diversity in the Amazon. He discussed a number of other things as well, but I was so tired I could barely keep my eyes open. Sadly I didn’t retain much after the first half of the lecture.

DAY FOUR (01/24/19)

When I woke up today people were saying it’s our last full day here. Most of the people I am with want to stay here forever and trust me this place is amazing! However, I could not deal with the humidity and being permanently damp for too much longer. I'm also way overtired and I get kept getting woken up last night so I’m looking forward to sleeping in a little bit when we get back. When I think about leaving here tomorrow it is a little sad, our time here flew by. However, during the time here it flew by and I saw SO many different species that I’ll never see in the wild elsewhere.

After breakfast, we all headed out towards the mineral lick which is an area where several different species go to feed/lick the dirt that’s filled with nutrients and minerals. When we got to the mineral lick there were no animals using it, but there were a lot of green parrots sitting in the trees. Someone counted at least 20 in one tree. We saw Blue Headed Parrot, Mealy Amazon, Yellow Crowned Amazon, and a Dusky Headed Parrot. Downstream just a tad there were 3 Howler monkeys crawling in the trees. They are just fabulous and every time I see them it’s just as exciting as the first time. On the way back from the lick we saw sawkey monkeys which are really fluffy and almost look like bears. They were pretty far up in the trees and it was raining so their fluff wasn’t as evident, but they were still super adorable. We also saw two macaws sitting in a palm and they are one of my favorite birds. The whole experience was great and the amount of wildlife we saw just within an hour and a half was mind blowing.

When we returned we worked on our projects til lunch and for a little bit afterwards as well. Soccer or Futbol here is huge and everyone plays it. There is actually a homemade soccer field here. However, its all mud because it’s close to the river, and well we’re in a rainforest so it’s always raining. All of the kitchen staff and the guides usually play a game a day. I watched about 5 minutes of one yesterday, and it was super intense. Today I knew my friend Madison wanted to try it out so I went down just with the intention of watching. However, when I got there the guys that were ready to play talked me into playing. They kept asking so I wasn’t going to say no. Most of them play barefoot or only with socks..some had on converse too. I need my sneakers to last me awhile, so I was out there playing in the big rubber boots lent to us by Tiputini. Soon enough I was drenched in mud from my pants to my shirt and even face. I fell once which accelerated the muddiness a bit. I was dying from laughter because every time someone fell all the guys would roar into laughter. After laughing they’d lend a helping hand to the poor soul that just got covered in mud. I would’ve thought since they play pretty much everyday people falling would be old to them by now. Seeing that they laughed just as hard every time was just great and it made me realize just how happy people are here. It also started raining while we were playing which made the mud situation intensify. One of the guys I was playing against was the head chef here, and he would purposely kick the muddy water to disorient whoever was coming at him and then take the ball. It was hilarious but also so clever, and he did end up getting me quite a few times. I was proud of myself because zi did score a goal and when I did a guy on my team ran over to me and gave me a big hug and was like YEESSS!!! Many high fives were exchanged and the game went on. It’s definitely something I’ll remember for a long time to come.

I left the soccer game after playing for an hour and half to shower. We had our presentations at 5pm today. I was kinda nervous for it since I didn’t rehearse what I was gonna say at all. In the end the presentation went over smoothly. Diana and I hit all the requirements and Becky (our professor) loved it. So all in all it was a success. Shortly after presentations we headed to our last dinner here at Tiputini. I eded up having a quiche with rice and a plantain. I honestly think I’ve been trying one new thing a day here. I’m loving everything I’m trying so I just have to learn how to make some of this stuff before returning home.

Post dinner, I went to a talk by the German professor with a couple people in my group. His entire class was in attendance as well as my professor. I had no idea what he was talking about but it had something to do with R which is a stats program and pictures. Afterwards, I packed and some people went on a night hike. I was not feeling the hike since I have one pair of pants left that are not drenched and smelly.

Just a side note, I know I wrote “head chef” but I wanted to make it clear I’m not staying in a resort in the middle of the Amazon. Technically yes I am but we’re in cabins and we have electricity for a couple hours a day. It’s comfortable living considering where I am. However, there are resorts and ecolodges where it can be $1000 a night per person because of how luxurious they are in the middle of the Amazon rainforest. I believe one of them is called Napo Wildlife Sanctuary? My professor was telling us all about it today. She was also saying most of the cooks here are Huorani or Cufan which is another native tribe. The great thing is that they are considered USFQ staff so they get full benefits including healthcare. I was talking to some of the guides (in Spanish) and most of them live in Coca for a week or two weeks and then they work here for two weeks.

This while experience has been so surreal and incredible. I’m happy I’ll be back in civilization tomorrow but this is an experience I will

never forget!

DAY FIVE (1/25/19)

The entire day today was spent traveling back to Cumbaya. It was honestly kinda sad to be leaving as the entire trip just flew by. We got to Coca with no problems and we had a bit over 2 hours to spare before we had to head to the airport. A few of us walked around the riverfront in Coca which had a Bahamian feel to it. The views were gorgeous however, the poor economy in Coca was extremely evident. Once we landed in Quito it felt comforting in a way. It's just funny how a couple weeks can change things. The last time I landed in Quito was on my arrival date and the place was foreign to me (literally). I was overwhelmed by the airport and now returning it felt like I was returning home and I was so comfortable being there.

I now have a much more in depth understanding of world issues such as extraction of natural resources, and the conflicts between natives and conservation ideals. This trip may have challenged my comfort zone in more ways than one, but it's a trip I will always remember. I will be forever grateful for my experience at Tiputini.