Fucking harley

Quy Nhon was simply a stop off on our way to Da Nang. We rode 350 miles in 2 days. Most of this was in the rain so when we got to Da Nang we were completely nackered. Luckily we found a guest house with the nicest room in SE Asia. We had planned to go to the national park the next day but instead decided to stay in the room and watch films as we couldn't muster up the energy to get back on the bike. We did try to bike up a mountain but a storm came in and it got really windy. Cara got a bit scared and so we headed back to the hotel. Not a very productive day but very necessary.

Next we biked to Dong Hoi which was our base to see the Phong Nha caves. The national park is home to the worlds largest caves, and most have only been open for only 4 years.

The next day was the best and worst day of the trip so far. We got up early to beat the crowds at the caves, only for our bike to not start. After our hostel owner tried for 30 mins to fix it (everyone in Asia seams to be a part time mechanic) we pushed it to the nearest garage. He fitted a new spark plug only for us to break down again 1 km down the road. After pushing the bike back to him we discovered he had accidentally switched off the fuel

supply. This time we were fine and drove to Paradise cave. It was sunny and the drive was beautiful through the national park. We seamed to get there at the perfect time when the tour groups were leaving. The cave was unbelievable and soo beautiful. The lighting was amazing and we were alone most of the time. The pictures cant really do it justice but it was one of the most impressive places I've ever been.

We left and about 100m down the road the bike hit moss and slipped from underneath us. We were only going about 5mph so were both fine just a little shaken. The bike however had a puncture and the handlebars were bent. We pushed it back to the cave to find someone to help. The were at least 20 minibuses or coaches, a restaurant and 10 shops but no-one seamed to be willing to help us. Eventually an Australian tour guide rang someone who was going to pick us up with his trailer. He never turned up and it was getting later. I pumped the wheel back up and rode around for a few minutes and the tire seamed to stay pumped. Not knowing what else to do we tried to ride the 10km to the nearest town. 4 km down the road the tire deflated and we were stuck in the middle of nowhere.

It was only 90 minutes from dark so I left Cara with the bike and ran back to the cave. 500m from the cave a bus full of old Asian ladies picked me up and couldn't stop laughing. They dropped me at the entrance to the cave where 2 westerners had also broken down. I waited for the guy who they had rented it

from to come and pick them up. When he got there I explained the situation and he drove me back to Cara and the bike. Cara then told me how 4 guys with machetes had walked past her earlier scaring her shitless. The bike guy explained that he would take the wheel to a mechanic 4km away and then bring it back fixed. It was only 30 minutes from being dark now so Cara went with him and I stayed with the bike with one wheel.

When it got dark it was completely dark. I couldn't see the bike that was next to me or the road. The tree line was the only thing I could make out. After 2 hours in the dark getting bitten to shit by mosquitoes he returned with the wheel. We then spent 30 minutes together trying to get the wheel back on the bike, only to finish with 2 bolts spare. We didn't know what they were for but didn't care at that stage. We were about to drive back when I realised Cara had the keys. By this stage I had been here for nearly 3 hours and was seriously fucked off. As was the guy helping. We took the front apart and

tried to hot wire it. The 5 machete guys returned and helped us with the hot wiring, and gave me a much needed fag.
The hot wire worked only for the light to stop working. Not knowing what else to do I rode 12km to the town with bent handlebars and only being able to use the other guys bike light to see. The whole experience was not one I wanted to repeat.

We ended up staying in Phong Nha for the day and night while the bike was fixed before driving back to the hostel in Dong Hoi. We visited dark cave next which was great fun, we kayaked to the cave, and then followed the guide all through the cave, swimming and clambering through tunnels until we arrived at a mud bath. All covered in mud and having had great fun we kayaked back and did a vip line to finish off.
Not wanted to spend another 2 days on the bike we packed it on a bus and headed to Ninh Binh.