Tahiti 2

It’s getting close to the end of our 90 day visa for French Polynesia. Time to go back to Tahiti to prepare for our next voyage at sea to the Cook Islands. There is no room for Nutmeg at the giant Marina Taina so we need to anchor out with the 100’s of other boats - but in the far end of the lagoon reserved for transients - and dinghy the long way back and forth as needed.

We are able to rent a car for a couple of days – so Max and Whitey can run their errands and we can all do some touristy things. On our downtown Papeete walking tour we visit some downtown parks and gardens near the downtown marinas (also full – no room for Nutmeg) and ferry dock. Local markets are a big thing here – where you can buy produce, fish, meat, flowers, handmade jewelry and art - as are ukeleles, outrigger boats, local art and history – and they play soccer on sand courts. There’s a memorial site for the nuclear testings France did between 1966 – 1996 on Moruroa and Fangataufa Atolls, causing significant long-term health and environmental problems.

We also drove out to Pointe Venus, the landing site of many famous explorers such as Captain James Cook and Captain William Bligh and Captain Samuel Wallis. (Note all those first names, Gkids!) At the northernmost point of Tahiti, this peninsula is surrounded by black sand beaches well enjoyed by the locals. Constructed in 1867 is the only lighthouse in Tahiti – the “Teara o Tahiti” is 8 floors high and is still an operating lighthouse.

After a day of rain, we take the local bus to the Grottes de Mara’a – 3 caves set back into the cliffs along the coastal road with shallow ponds of water, water dripping down from the cave tops, hanging vines and lush tropical plants and flowers, if smells and feels like you are in the jungle – which you are.

Another bus ride takes us to Marae Arahurahu, a well restored 3-story marae which is still in use. There were bleacher seats setup on 2 sides for the July Heiva Nui celebrations – part of the Polynesian Renaissance. The Heiva Nui is a month long festival throughout the various islands celebrating the local culture with parades, outrigger canoe races, javelin-throwing contest, “coconutting”, fire walking ceremony, song and dance competitions, and other unique cultural events.

Friday morning we dinghy in to get checked out of French Polynesia with customs - compare all our faces to our passports and most importantly make sure all the ships papers are in order and given all the official stamps to move on to the Cook Islands. We dinghy back out to Nutmeg, lift the dinghy up to it's spot on the stern and take Nutmeg into the fuel dock so we have plenty of fuel to take us places. It's a beautiful sunny day as we motor back out to Moorea for one last good snorkel and for a couple more days to prepare the boat for it's next journey. One the way to our final French Polynesia anchorage we run closely along the outer barrier reef. I am constantly in awe of the power of the surf here. Today's large ocean swells breaking on the reef are creating an astounding surf - the incredibly huge rolling waves topped with air-filled glacier blue water with seaspray dancing above, finally rollling into itself with a ginormous thundering foamy white splash. Totally awesome. I never tire of watching it. If only we could harness all that energy.

Looks like we will have perfect sea and weather conditions to leave these magnificent islands. It has been an amazing experience. So glad we came! Mauruuru roa!
XO XO Gma & Gpa