Gma's and Gpa's Great Adventures

The TUAMOTU’s, also known as “the Dangerous Archipelago”, are a group of over 70 atoll islands. They are so low (mostly less than 10’) that many boats have been shipwrecked on the reefs. Developed by underwater volcanoes, an atoll is a ring-shaped coral reef, island or series of islands surrounding a lagoon. Channels between these flat islets connect the lagoon to the open sea. Navigating in you need to be aware of the tides and strong currents affecting your depth.

Once safely inside the lagoon at Rangiroa, the calm water seems like a giant lake in the middle of the South Pacific. At over 43 miles long and 16 miles wide, it is the 2nd largest atoll in the world. The ring is formed by some 240 motus or islets separated by about 130 shallow channels called “hoas”. What a world of difference from the mountainous Marquesas!

RUTH METZ

32 chapters

29 Jan 2023

Tuamotu Archipelago

May 12, 2023

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French Polynesia

The TUAMOTU’s, also known as “the Dangerous Archipelago”, are a group of over 70 atoll islands. They are so low (mostly less than 10’) that many boats have been shipwrecked on the reefs. Developed by underwater volcanoes, an atoll is a ring-shaped coral reef, island or series of islands surrounding a lagoon. Channels between these flat islets connect the lagoon to the open sea. Navigating in you need to be aware of the tides and strong currents affecting your depth.

Once safely inside the lagoon at Rangiroa, the calm water seems like a giant lake in the middle of the South Pacific. At over 43 miles long and 16 miles wide, it is the 2nd largest atoll in the world. The ring is formed by some 240 motus or islets separated by about 130 shallow channels called “hoas”. What a world of difference from the mountainous Marquesas!

There’s one main road with a village at each end, Avatoru and Tiputa, with an airstrip about halfway between – and Aunt Susie is meeting us here! We rent a car to explore the area, pick up Susie, provision, etc. Tuamotu is the place to buy black pearls which are farmed here. We also find a local food truck on the beach with great fish and chips with fresh caught lagoon fish.

Rangiroa is famous for its amazing dives and snorkeling. Max and Whitey do some deep drift scuba dives with their friends Fran and Butch who are also traveling in French Polynesia and staying on a nearby motu while Gma, Gpa & Aunt Susie find some amazing snorkeling. What an underwater wonderland of fish and corals!

A couple days later we all take a day tour with Orava Excursions out to the Blue Lagoon, way at the other end of the atoll, which is actually a lagoon within the lagoon. On the way, we go past Bird Island where

1000’s of seabirds nest and then anchor just outside the Blue Lagoon to swim with the “bull sharks”. Back abord the boat, there’s a narrow, shallow pass into the lagoon where we run aground in the sand. We need to all get off the boat with our “stuff” and walk to a small island surrounded by a reef full of colorful corals and sea life. It is a breeding ground for black-tip reef sharks with lots ad lots of harmless young sharks gathering around your feet in very shallow water. The crew cooks lunch for everyone - grilled chicken, fish, fresh grilled coconut bread, and fried rice – soooo gooood! They show us how to weave palm leaf bags and we learn how to open a fresh coconut. The boat trip back is a bit bouncy and wild, but we stop for another amazing snorkel, watch a "dolphin show" in the erratic waters of Tiputa Pass and it's another great day in paradise!

Now I will let the pictures speak for themselves.
XO XO Gma & Gpa

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