[Namibia] Chapter IV: In which Walvis Bay astounds us, its pilgrims

Walvis Bay proved to be quite a surprise.

The first surprise came immediately upon entering it. Ten kilometres before the city we were still suffering from the sweltering desert heat under a blazing sun and a cloudless sky, tempered only by strong winds blowing from the wilderness. The city itself, on the other hand, was autumnally cold with the occasional light drizzles and an

eternally overcast sky. It was like moving from a Greek summer to a Belgian autumn in the span of a moment.

A much greater and much more pleasant surprise came when we joined a kayaking tour in the Walvis Bay lagoon (guided by Jeanne & Bernard of the Eco Marine Kayak Tours). The tour began with an hour's drive around the Walvis Bay lagoon to its farthest edge (Pelican Point), along the way seeing hundreds of water birds --- primarily greater and lesser flamingoes, but also pelicans, terns, gulls, cormorants and more --- as well as a dozen or so jackals --- seemingly well fed and quite idle. But the highlight by far was the kayaking around Pelican Point, home to a colony of many thousands of Cape fur seals. Upon launching the kayaks into the water, we were immediately joined by several troupes of frolicking fur seals, apparently eager to play with us on their own terms --- swimming around and under the kayaks, jumping in an out of the water, playfully biting our outstretched fingers or oars, attempting to grab the camera, and, most endearingly, lying on their backs for us to rub their bellies to their hearts' content. The two hours we spent in the kayaks with the seals were among the most enjoyable experiences we have had in a long time.

Accommodations:
- The Langholm Hotel (2 nights; very nice)

Photo captions: (a-b) flamingoes; (c-d) jackals; (e-f) fur seal colony; (g-k) playful fur seals; (l) a dead jellyfish