The Smoke that Thunders

We checked in at the Johannesburg airport for the first of our 4 local flights over the next 7 days. I had visions of a small prop plane for our 80-minute flight and was worried about whether our standard luggage would be acceptable. Not to worry. This is modern South Africa and the plane is a huge Airbus 330-200 and it is almost completely filled. Lots of people going to Victoria Falls. Before takeoff, they advise that the plane has to sprayed inside. They go up each aisle with aerosol spray cans and spray up towards the overheads. Not sure of the purpose and a little unnerving.

Immigration in Zimbabwe is very time-consuming. Someone had told us it was less expensive to get a dual visa than a single visa so after standing in a long line after departing the plane we replied "double visa" when asked. There were 4 immigration lines, none of which seemed to be moving so we were initially relieved when we were sent to the shortest line. Might have been shortest but the agent was the slowest. After one hour we finally paid our fee, which did not relate to the fees that were posted, and we were on our way. Not quite sure

about the double visa as the sign in the agents booth said “Canadians - no double visa”. It was one of those situations where you just know it is best not to ask questions.

Visiting Victoria Falls has been on my dream list for over 25 years. Hard to believe I finally made it here. Victoria Falls is called Mosi-oa-Tunya - which means the Smoke that Thunders. The rising mist creates clouds that look like smoke and the thundering sound of the water can be heard from quite a distance.

I have always had a goal to see the 7 Natural Wonders of the World. (That was before they created the New 7 Natural Wonders of the World.) One problem I had was there seemed to be an inconsistency as to what the 7th wonder was. I knew Victoria Falls was one of them, and on a sign at the park, it listed the 7. The seventh one that was confirmed for me was the Northern Lights or aurora borealis. So

I can say I have now seen 3 of the 7 original Wonders - Grand Canyon, Victoria Falls, and Aurora Borealis. I have also now been to 2 of the New 7 Wonders - Halong Bay (Vietnam) and Table Mountain (in Cape Town).

Our accommodation at Ilala Lodge was great. It is advertised as being closest to the Falls. We are surprised to see very large warthogs outside our room and are advised to make sure we keep the room and patio doors locked as the baboons like to get in and steal things. There was a constant sound of helicopters doing tours of the Falls. We can see the mist of the falls from our hotel and hear them, but can not see the Falls themselves.

After a late lunch, we are picked up at our hotel for a sunset river cruise on the Zambezi Queen, along the Zambezi River, well above Victoria Falls. It was a gentle floating trip along the river - with views

of elephants and hippos. The hippos would surface near the boat and make the strangest noises. They served us drinks and some pretty hefty appetizers.

It was our first experience sleeping under mosquito netting, which was great for me. I had woken up the first morning in Cape Town with new insect bites on exposed shoulders and ankles - mostly because we had left our patio door open. Our room also has a thatched roof.

On Day 2, our tour company, Wild Horizons, arrived early to take us on a tour of the Falls. While waiting for our bus, a family of warthogs decided to have a territorial fight on the main street!

We were advised that raincoats are provided by the tour company, but I think they should have advised wearing a bathing suit underneath as the raincoat really didn’t keep us dry. We had brought our own rain jackets and pants which in hindsight we should have worn under the provided raincoats.

The amount of water flowing over the falls in incredible, as is the amount of spray that comes up. The start of the viewing path allows you to be right beside the water’s edge and all the way along you are at eye level with the top of the falls on the opposite side of the gorge. The walking path in total is about 1400 metres, but only during the first half can you actually see the falls through the mist. The rest is experienced as a major rain storm (caused by the mist), and all you can do is watch the shoes of the person in front of you as it is almost impossible to look up. I swear the rain was coming in right through my very unattractive black raincoat.

After a couple of hours walking along the Falls, we come to the end of the path beside the famous bridge that crosses over the river between Zimbabwe and Zambia. We were completely soaked and wondered if our shoes will dry out in time for our planned evening Lunar Rainbow walk.

After lunch, we decided to check out the classic Victoria Falls Hotel. They have a beautiful view of the bridge and the mist from the falls. We decided to try to walk to the bridge and once we were at the edge of the Hotel property we were greeted by a private security guard who would walk with us to the Falls. Apparently, we are in the national forest and his job was to make sure we were not accosted by baboons. When I asked if he carried a gun he advised they do not kill animals and he showed me his weapon of choice - a slingshot.

To go over the bridge you have to cross into Zambia which involves a border crossing immigration check. We walked for another 10

minutes and realized that the wind was blowing the mist in our direction and without rain gear we were going to get soaked again. So we turned around to cross back into Zimbabwe and their immigration process.

I was getting used to being in Africa as we walked right by baboons and warthogs and they seemed as common as cats and dogs here. At one point a Vervet monkey scampered right across my path.

We were scheduled to go on the Lunar Rainbow tour (or Moonbow). There are only 3 places in the world to see a rainbow that is created by the light of a full moon along with the mist from a waterfall. Victoria Falls, Corbin Kentucky and Yosemite National Park. We had timed this visit for a full moon to hopefully see a Moonbow. It was not to be. The clouds were just in the wrong spot to catch it so the park rangers canceled the tour. We did see the full moon eventually but it quickly slid behind some clouds. Well, we tried, and of course - the weather is always unpredictable.

I feel very blessed to have seen Halong Bay in Vietnam at the end of 2016 and now Victoria Falls in 2018. Still lots of wonders to enjoy!