Lisbon to Coimbra

We were all obediently breakfasted, packed and lobbied at 8.45 ready to drag our suitcases to the pick up point for our private transfer - a half sized very comfy bus to Coimbra, pronounced ‘queembra’ with a short ‘a’. First thing of notice was 120 kph speed limits (that were ignored at times with vehicles screaming past) rather than the 80 or below in Norway, where they were mostly complied with (did spot 110kph twice for brief distances in Norway). How big is the car rental tolls and ticketing bill Tim? A: no speeding tickets but $NZ400 in tolls.

Stopped off to walk around the delightful medieval town of Obidas,

that again dates back to the 12th century St Mary’s Church - how many of them are there? This one first built 1148 and rebuilt 1525. Another church in the town surprisingly managed to defy the congregations wishes and is now a very grand bookshop.
Also constructed in the 16th century, the town portico was the job centre of the era where the peasants reported each day to seek work. Not realising how narrow and high it was going to get, off I went to walk the city ramparts = major knee knocking and the rather frozen look on my face in the photo a fellow traveller took of me.

A medieval village film set currently being constructed on the site that’s shaping up to look a bit Hobbitty like the one PJ had built in Wellington’s hills (not the Morrinsville one). Noting JK Rowling had a Portuguese boyfriend and lived in Portugal for a couple of years and is much revered here. She based the Hogwarts uniform on the black caped uniform worn by senior students at the University in Coimbra that we will visit tomorrow, and by the photos I’ve now seen of the inside of the Uni buildings, she’s used them as inspiration for Hogwarts.

> More pics of Obidas including delectable chocolate cup of the local cherry liquor.

The UNESCO listed Batalha Monastry of Santa Maria da Vitoria is the top spot for this Gadventue so far = wow!!!!! Ceiling height >32 metres. Translates to ‘the monastery of the battle’ and is the one place you should fit in, if ever coming to Portugal. Although some bits never completed and will remain so as ‘The Unfinished Chapels’, construction took 200 years starting in the 14th century to celebrate the 1385 battle of Alijubarrota, where 6,500 English supported Portuguese troops beat off 32,000 Italian and French supported Aragonese troops from the Crown of Castile. Therefore keeping the Kingdom of Portugal separate from what is now Spain - it is best to not mention it if you feel the countries, people or languages have any similarities.
Easy to spot the Hotel Astoria as we crossed the Rio Mondego in Coimbra, what a grand old lady she is, proudly sporting her 102 year old bones and our abode for the next two nights. Pretty tired in places but nice big rooms and modern bathrooms. Yay for a lift or I would have been dragging the pink monster up 12 flights of stairs (high ceilings, 3 flights per floor), walking them otherwise though as way too much food and alcohol being consumed. The Portuguese have

outdoor dining covered to perfection, delicious food every time and great wine, even had a GF beer at a GF only restaurant. It tasted as good as proper beer, without the baking sofa flavour the NZ ones seem to have. Ana took us on an orientation walk of the spots to hit near the hotel, including the Botanic Gardens and Coimbra University (both UNESCO listed) where we did get to see some Harry Potter lookalikes. Then a leisurely meal out together and a wander back through the ancient streets as they were sound testing for an English language pop concert due to kick off at 10.30pm - the speakers definitely passed the testing. Apparently all pop music is sung in English here. Some party animals amongst our group stayed out for that, I went to bed not expecting to sleep through the noise but was out like a light, thanks to those double glazed PVC framed windows we so need to get back home.
PHOTOs below and next page: Batalha Monastry of Santa Maria da Vitoria, including changing of the guard.

3rd July: Touristed out, I spent three hours walking the river paths and exploring the nearby streets, followed by a late leisurely lunch at the GF restaurant. We’ve lucked up again arriving during the annual St Elizabeth celebrations. She was a much revered Queen, peacemaker, charity and miracle worker who lived 1271 to 1336 and was canonised by Pope Urban VIII in 1625. Another free concert going on that I’m listening to through my open window and enjoying the city lights ahead of the fireworks that lasted for 12 minutes rather than the half hour expected by Ana.

PHOTOS: The Astoria in her 102 year old Art Nouveau glory, my daytime view, my room and the midnight fireworks from neighbouring balcony of two fellow Gadventurers - Sandra (Kiwi) and Debbie (Brit).