Island hopping across the Atlantic Road archipelago - another of the 11 must drives

A much needed sleep in until 8.30 this morning after another nightless night, see photo below taken out my curtain free window at 3.30am. That is as dark as it gets here this time of year. Karen started her day with a 5k uphill run, her pounding feet the only sound to be heard in this quiet backwater at 9am. Tim and I settled for strong coffee.

By car, by tunnel, by ferry, off adventuring we go - a stop at Varden in the municipality of Molde for panoramic views of the Fannefjord, Moldefjord, 222 snow tipped peaks (or 300 - seems to depend on which online information you want to believe) and dozens of little islands - many hiding in the clouds today.

BELOW: Our basement Airbnb in Stranda - the best so far.
Cute church we passed in Stordal.
Sod roof: traditional Scandinavian roofing using layered birch bark for waterproofing and sod to hold it down. Still widely used as cheap material with neighbours invited to the roofing party to provide the extensive labour. Well tended with tree seedlings and larger growing wind blown seedlings removed, they can last decades. Roof loading around 250kg per sq’m (400 t0 500 kg with snow) and compresses the log walls reducing drafts.
We’ve dubbed this mountain Troll’s Bite.

Not possible to photograph Atlanterhavsvegan (Atlantic Road) in one shot so snapped the photo on the roadside info sign that was taken on a sunny day. We struck a wet, cloudy day. Lucked up again though, eating pollock for the first time, thanks to fisherman Tim befriended and who happened to walk into my shot with the fish in his hand - and K&T’s home cooking - photo bottom page 82.

Norway does tourism really well with the Public Roads Administration developing significant tourist routes installing viewing points, services, furniture, artworks etc. Biggest earners are gas, fishery exports and the oil industry that coughed up 119 billion NOK ($NZ21b) in 2018. Being such devoted tourists we are doing our

bit to be sure they get a good income from road, tunnel and ferry tolls.

Yes thats me looking for north and Karen is still laughing - I did have a head injury at the time ;). Spot the deer we scared off into the forest when out walking and Kurt’s even better Airbnb - what a rightfully proud host he is, lives upstairs and charges way too low at $86NZ for the three of us per night, the cheapest accommodation so far. We encouraged him to double that - after we have gone. What an exquisite rural location and superbly kitted out two bedroom ground floor apartment. Kurt (X national ski jumper until broke his back) gave us a detailed tour right down to each light switch, told us where to go deer spotting and loads of interesting info. Despite being within 400k of the Artic Circle, it wasn’t too cold. Warm air flows from the Gulf of Mexico warming Norway by as much as 10 to 15 degrees, particularly this area where they don’t get a lot of snow, if they do it melts fairly quickly. Kurt’s garden turns yellow over summer due to the wild deer eating everything that is not yellow, stones are his preferred pest control method and he assured us the meat is very nice.

BELOW: Kurt and Tim deer spotting with success.

Giant crab made by local school kids from plastic waste they’ve collected from the coastline of the Atlantic Road.

Bird house and feeder outside main bedroom window at Kurt’s Airbnb.

Lounge/dining area.

My bedroom, both bedrooms had fresh roses in crystal dishes on the bedside tables.