Pedrafita do Cebreiro, Galicia, Spain and Canary Islands
Thursday, July 9, 2015

I was a little nervous today as the entire 13 km involved a steep ascent. We had a great breakfast and left by half past 8. The uphill started almost immediately and was relentless till we reached O'Cebreiro. The heat made the ascent more strenuous. But the pilgrims kept going, one step at a time, taking breaks for a sip of water or to enjoy the stunning scenery. We were mostly on dirt lanes, occasionally on tarmac roads, passed chestnut woods, fields and meadows and grazing cows. The cows were surefooted as they roamed the mountainous landscape for grass. Often, we shared our paths with cows, cowherds, donkeys and dogs that herded the animals. The animals also left generous amounts of dung in all states and smells that we had to negotiate as we scrambled up. Somewhere along the way, we passed from the province of Leon into the province of Galicia. In La Faba, we came across a hippie style shop/café and (vegetarian) bar/albergue with a statue of Lord Ganesh outside. We were curious and thirsty, so we went in. The place was colourful, eco friendly and the menu offered several delicacies that were prepared from local produce. We had freshly prepared vegetable juices and some snacks and reluctantly resumed our climb. But when we arrived at O’Cebriero, it was worth the sweat and aches and pains. The views were spectacular. After all, we were at the second highest point in the camino (we had reached the highest point on July 6). O’Cebreiro is a small village with about 20 or so stone buildings and cobbled streets, a 12th century church, thatched roofs – all with Celtic origins. When you walk into O’Cebreiro, you are instantly transported into a different time and place. It’s surreal. The scenery was breathtaking and we just wandered around after we checked into our hotel. By the way, our hotel owner also owned the bar in the village. Upon our arrival, she left the bar and took us upstairs to our room. The room was basic with a view of pretty much the whole town. We could see everybody, smell all the food and hear everybody! It felt good! Now, if you don’t like this sort of thing, let me assure you by 11 pm, like magic, everything and everyone became quiet and we were all fast asleep! After we checked in, we went to the hotel restaurant and had lunch – all that climbing had made us hungry! We met several fellow pilgrims and were happy to see each other. Some of the whipper snappers (the name I gave to younger pilgrims who zipped past us) we had passed in the past few days, seemed subdued as they limped along in heavily plastered toes and heels and with their knees in compressors. The Way tames us all! After a shower and a brief rest, we went down to the main square (which you can see from our windows). At the gift shop in the main square, we purchased a few mementos. Then, we visited the old church, lit candles and also paid a visit to the memorial of Don Elias Valia Sampedro. This O’Cebreiro parish priest (1929 – 1989) not only restored the church and hospital at O’Cebreiro but also walked the entire camino and painted the yellow arrows on trees, roads, walls etc. that modern pilgrims use to navigate their way across the 800 km. Due to his efforts, the number of pilgrims who received the compostela increased from 10 in the 1970s to 300 000 in 2010!! Dinner was another simple homemade meal of Galician broth, fried trout and a bottle of wine. After, we (like everyone else) went to watch the sunset. It was beautiful! We strolled past the biggest albergue in town and glimpsed the neatly arranged shoes through the glass windows. As I fell asleep that night I could see the stars and the northern star clearly. What a beautiful day! I felt like I was in heaven!

Where I stayed
Hotel O Cebreiro - Cebreiro s/n, Pedrafita do Cebreiro, Spain
I rated this place 4/5 - Well located and comfortable!
Traditional, warm and comfortable. Great location! Excellent breakfast!