Astorga, Castile-León, Spain and Canary Islands
Saturday, July 4, 2015

We had a sumptuous breakfast at our hotel and took a cab to Madrid Chamartin Station. The wait at the station was pleasant and comfortable. Our train departed promptly at 10:30. As we approached the walled city of Astorga, there were fewer cities and we were clearly headed towards the province of Leon and the mountains.

Astorga's history dates back 200 000 years! There are clear and vivid examples of Roman, Celtic and Gothic influence. We collected our luggage from the train and walked the short distance to our hotel, Casa de Tepa - more museum than hotel. It is a family home that has been restored to accommodate guests. The antique furniture, the enchanting ambience, the open bar in the garden with views of the Cathedral and the helpful staff made our stay memorable. The owner recommended the restaurant across the street for 'maragatos’ – a traditional meal. So off we went and ordered the meal. The meal is a staple of the maragatos who are the main ethnic group in Astorga. This group arrived in Spain from North Africa in the eighth century. The meal was unique. For starts, the meal is backwards. First came the meat platter – various game and livestock (beef, pork, chicken etc.) and organs. The meat platter came with a plate of freshly sliced tomatoes with olive oil and a bottle of wine. Despite our hearty appetites, we barely made a dent! Next came the chickpeas and cabbage, stewed in the meat broth. Again, portions were generous! Finally came the soup, which is noodles cooked in the leftover broth from cooking the meat. Dessert was flan and sweet bread. And of course the espresso and orujo, a local liqueur common in northern Spain! We staggered out of the Michelin starred restaurant and spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the Episcopal Palace and the Gothic Cathedral. The origins of these historic buildings date back to the twelfth and fifteenth century. There was a wedding rehearsal and later an actual wedding taking place at the Cathedral. We burnt some of the calories consumed at lunch while touring the neo-gothic Palace and the magnificent Cathedral, but had no appetite for dinner! We returned to our Casa, had some café (which the owner graciously served us in the garden) and retired early to bed. Tomorrow was our first day on the Camino - Astorga to Rabanal del Camino!

Where I stayed
Casa de Tepa - Calle Santiago 2, Astorga, Spain
I rated this place 5/5 - Awesome and unique!
Enchanting ambience, friendly and gracious staff, excellent breakfast
What I saw
Archbishop's Palace (Palacio Episcopal) - Adjacent to cathedral, AstorgaLeón, Castile-León, Spain and Canary Islands