Colombia
The Sail to Cartagena was a mix of fun and old style dirtbagging. While the cost of passage was equivalent to the cost of a five star hotel in NYC for four nights, accommodations were a bit less extravagant. However, the company was pleasurable, food was very good, the Caribbean water was warm and inviting and the final steak dinner on deck of the Stahlratte looking out at the city lights of Cartagena was a wonderful introduction to Colombia.
The old Colonial City was interesting but the hot and humid climate left me aching for the cool temps of the mountains. So after two days, one of which was spent in immigration and Aduana getting approval for us and our bikes to enter, and another touring the old parts of Cartagena, we left for Valledupar and the Santa Maria mountains. We travelled almost exclusively in the mountains for our entire stay in Colombia. Most Travelers opt for the Pan American highway through this country but we decided to see a bit more of the terrain and people who live a bit off the beaten path. Our travels took us from Valledupar to Pueblo Bello on a dirt track to see Indigenous peoples in white ropas and hats living up in the mountains. Then to Ocana, Cocuta on the Venezuelan border, San Gil, Villa de Leyva, Bogota an immense city, Medellin, Guatupe to climb the “rock”, Quimbyao, Popayan, San Agustin and finally to Pasto. Allways in the moutains. Wonderful mountains with so many tight curvy roads in mostly good shape. A motorcyclists dream!
I would recommend Colombia to any biker as a destination. It is truly a great place to ride. The people are extremely friendly, the food is good, the riding on and off pavement is fantastic and it is very inexpensive to travel there. We did have a few off road diggers which required some repairs in Bogota. But we needed new rear tires anyway and that was a good place to get them. Everything in Colombia was great! Go there if you get a chance. Everything politically seems pretty stable right now but one never knows about the future.
The most difficult ride we did was getting from San Agustin to Pasto. We took a long dirt track called the “Trampolin de Muerte” (Trampoline of Death). It was a bit of a test but spectacular. While there where many long drops, exposure and stream crossings the most intimidating aspect was the insane drivers going incredibly fast with absolutely no regard for your life on a Moto. They caused MB to ditch a couple times. Kind of hairy but we did it. Somehow, I think we might see a bit more of that kind of thing as we travel further south.