Around the World in Many Days, V: South Pacific
After six days of pre-, mid- and post-cyclone delay, we finally returned to our original plan, rented a car, and set out on a series of day trips around the two primary Samoan islands, Upolu (3 days) and Savai'i (2 days).
By the time we ventured out, more than 48 hours after the cyclone, most of the major roads had been cleared of large debris, but some
[Samoa] Chapter LVI: In which we take a great interest in water and lava, and what comes of it
February 12, 2018
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Around Upolu and Savai'i, Samoa, 12-17 February 2018
After six days of pre-, mid- and post-cyclone delay, we finally returned to our original plan, rented a car, and set out on a series of day trips around the two primary Samoan islands, Upolu (3 days) and Savai'i (2 days).
By the time we ventured out, more than 48 hours after the cyclone, most of the major roads had been cleared of large debris, but some
smaller roads still had fallen trees partly blocking them, and hiking paths seemed to be generally too clogged with broken branches to pass. Thus, some attractions were unreachable and some were accessible only with the help of a local showing us an alternative route. Still, we had more than enough sights to fill our days with, not to mention the colourful Samoan countryside we drove through, inherently charming, yet with a sombre undertone of the effects of the cyclone showing here and there.
As a pair of volcanic islands surrounded by the vast Pacific Ocean and subjected to heavy tropical rain year-round, it is not surprising that many of the attractions Samoa has to offer revolve around water and lava formations, and sometimes the two combined. Thus, we visited three overflowing waterfalls; we swam in an ocean trench (a wide vertical lava tube connected to the ocean by an underwater tunnel and thus partly filled with seawater); we snorkelled with giant clams; we hiked over lava fields (the result of a 1905-1911 volcanic eruption); we stared at spellbinding blowholes (narrow coastal lava tubes through which the ocean waves spurt in jets up to a dozen metres high); and more. Quite an adventure.
Accommodations:
- Martin's Airbnb room on Moamoa Road, Apia, Upolu (4 nights; not great, but we got used to the place and did not look for another)
- The Savaiian Hotel, Lalomalava, Savai'i (1 night; ok)
Photo captions: (a-g) signs of the storm; (h) Papapapaitai Falls; (i-k) Togitogiga Falls; (l-w) To Sua Ocean Trench and its grounds; (x-nn) Savaia Marine Protected Area (giant clams); (oo-vv) Sale'aula Lava Fields; (ww-ddd) Alofa'aga Blowholes; (eee-ggg) Afu'aau Falls; (hhh-iii) Piula Cave Pool; (jjj-yyy) houses, roadside stalls, and fales (traditional wallless pillared buildings/huts); (zzz-qqqq) on the road
1.
[Fiji] Chapter XLVIII: In which N secures a common means of conveyance at a pretty good price
2.
[Fiji] Chapter XLIX: In which we venture into the Fijian timezone, and what ensued
3.
[Fiji] Chapter L: In which we receive a new proof that it is hot in the tropics
4.
[Fiji] Chapter LI: In which we visit Suva without actually seeing it
5.
[Fiji] Chapter LII: In which the bag of temperatures disgorges some thousands of centigrades more
6.
[Fiji] Chapter LIII: In which R does not seem to like in the least what is offered to him
7.
[Samoa] Chapter LIV: Showing what happened on the voyage across the antimeridian
8.
[Samoa] Chapter LV: In which we, Samoa, and Gita go each about our business
9.
[Samoa] Chapter LVI: In which we take a great interest in water and lava, and what comes of it
10.
Summary of Part V and Onwards to Part VI
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