Paris, France

We visited Paris for a few days in 2011, loved it, and hoped to one day return – so this was the time. We stayed for a week in a quirky Airbnb in the 11th arrondissement. To enter, was the usual unappealing (quite grotty) front door leading in from the street, but then along a corridor and out of one building, over a pedestrian footbridge and into another building. From there, it was a surprise to find stairs leading down, from which we emerged into a tiny but cute courtyard one level below the street and surrounded by five-& six-storey apartment buildings.

Our host was a local musician with his own CDs and, we think, he vacated his home for the summer months to rent it out. The apartment was full of his

personal touches and memorabilia, which added lots of interest and individuality to the décor.

A bonus was the fact that, in the searing heat that Europe was experiencing, the temperature was several degrees lower down there than on street level, which was hugely appreciated as there was no air con in the apartment.

We really enjoyed visiting the famous sites and locations of Paris but, once again, our dislike of spending hours in long queues in the hot sun precluded entry to the Eiffel Tower and Louvre for us. Sadly, the base of the Eiffel Tower is now completely encased in high security fencing, so it's no longer possible to look up at the structure from beneath.

Highlights of Paris:
We nailed the Metro – loved it for its convenience, ease of navigation, cleanliness. It was kind of freaky though, to realise we were on an automated train at one stage with a clear view ahead out the front window and no driver to be seen!

The Arc de Triomphe is stunning (we climbed to the top last visit) but this time enjoyed watching the traffic chaos from the ground, as each vehicle tried to make their way off the roundabout (that's what it essentially is) and down one of the twelve avenues in the star-shape leading from it. Evidently the only rule is that vehicles entering the roundabout have the right-of-way, otherwise it seems to be a free-for-all, and we imagine some people must go round and round trying to work their way to the outer rim in order to get off it. We would be very reluctant to drive onto it ourselves, ever, it would be a highly stressful experience!

Towards the end of our stroll down the Champs Elysée, we watched seating for thousands being erected days before 14 Juillet (Bastille Day), a massive national day of celebration commemorating the beginning of the French Republic. We were sad to think we’d be departing Paris that day and missing out on the spectacular three-hour long military parade and evening fireworks display but, if we’re honest, we probably wouldn’t have had the courage to face the crowds and commute to view them anyway.

The Cathedral of Notre Dame, after its devastating fire on 15 April 2019 was sad to see, fenced off and enshrouded in scaffolding, but they were making great strides to return it to its former glory within only a few short years, according to the information billboards and photos relating the progress and timelines surrounding the site.

Our day at the Le Palais et Jardins de Versailles was booked in advance so we had no choice but to venture out in the 32-degree heat. A large chunk of our journey was by bus and the temperature must have been nearer 40 degrees inside, absolutely stifling. The palace was packed with people and, although stunning, became an endurance exercise shuffling along at a snail's pace as we, and the throngs, negotiated our way through it. But the gardens are massive and magnificent, and we wandered happily exploring the tree-& hedge-lined paths and avenues for hours in blessed shade.

We took a walking tour of the Montmartre district leading up to the Sacre-Coeur Basilica, and enjoyed the commentary in the back streets with gracious homes and pretty gardens away from the usual crowds and vendors all trying to sell their tacky wares. One stop was outside the cafe used for the 2001 movie "Amelie", by all accounts, a whimsical depiction of contemporary Parisian life, set in Montmartre, the 18th arrondissement of Paris. It's on our

list to watch one day.

Cimetiere du Pere-Lachaise: A fascinating wander through a huge cemetery and the most amazing grave art. The most creepy was of two arms reaching out of their respective graves and with their hands clasped together on top. I wish I'd taken a photo of that.

Le Petit Palais is a lovely art gallery on the Champs Elysée, free of charge and free of crowds, well worth a visit.

Exploring the streets surrounding the Pantheon, the Sorbonne district and magnificent Jardin de Luxembourg.

Mostly, we loved to sit at a sidewalk café with a coffee and watch the crowds or explore neighbourhoods by foot observing the fascinating ethnic diversity.

Ah Paris, on t’aime!

"There are only two places in the world where we can live happily - at home and in Paris". Ernest Hemingway