Portugal Morocco Spain France

12th January 2018
Time to move on, with some sadness. Heading for Ilhao in the Algarve in Portugal. Temperature significantly higher down on the coast.
Airbnb $75.15

13th January 2018
Headed for Lagos via Faro and lunch in Loule.
Airbnb $64.96

14th January 2018
Had the morning in Lagos before heading along the coast, stopping at a few fishing/ tourist villages before ending up at Sagres on the S/W tip. Even on a quiet day big swells rolling in from the Atlantic.

15th January 2018
Headed for Lisbon via Silves an old fortified town with Moorish castle on the top of the hill. Further north through cork forests.
Airbnb $68.40

16th January 2018
Caught the ferry across the harbour and spent the day in Lisbon. Castello de Sao Jorge and cathedral and the very ornate Chapel Sao Roque. Had lunch in a small square overlooking the harbour with a pair of guitarists playing. Buskers in a number of the other squares. We even found time to buy a new pair of shoes .Portugal back to mad overtaking Spain was so nice to drive in, Tiled exteriors, Fancy chimneys, natural stone around windows and more colour in house exteriors and most speak excellent English.

17th January 2018
Managed to stuff up the toll bridge over Lisbon harbour. Hopefully won't cost us too much. Had the day in Sintra with its various Palaces and palace gardens. Dropped back to Belam and wandered the monuments and Monestary along the coast before stopping at the Sanctuary of Christ the King, Lisbons version of Rios' Christ the Redeemer.

Photos: Largos x2, Sagres x2

18th January 2018
Had previously discounted Evora due to distance, but with a day to spare headed out there. Pleasant town, but perhaps more hyped than it deserves. Portuguese are as friendly as the Spainish .

19th January 2018
Off to Morrocco. 19 degrees and people wandering about dressed for the Arctic. Taken to our accomodation and shown around. Slightly more "ethnic" than the photos had shown, but that's all part of the adventure. Taken up to the terrace to see the roof top view. Roof top literally. Up a ladder from the third floor, and not a hand rail in sight.
Airbnb $83.97

Photos: Previous page:Salema,Sagres,Lisbon x2,Sintra, Belem x3
This page: Evora x2, Fes x2

20th January 2018
First full day in Fes. A full frontal assault on all the senses. Walked out of the medina behind the morning municipal rubbish collection. Donkeys. Not with carts, just carrying load. Everything that happens inside the walls, happens because a human or donkey has pushed or carried it in here. A day wandering the streets and markets. Thousands of tiny shops, workshops and suppliers. Reminds me of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, but on a city sized scale.

21st January 2018
Having eluded us yesterday, we found the famous tanneries this morning. So many handbags, and so little time. Looking at a map, and actually navigating the medina are two very different things, but we have found our way home each day, so I'm going to call that 2 nil to us

22nd January 2018
Met up with our tour driver and headed for Chefchouen (blue city) for the day. The old city is quite stunning all painted in blue and white, but the stand out for me was the hand woven rugs. Watching the guys making them and seeing some of the finished pieces, so cool. The agricultural land north of Fes much greener than I had envisioned.
Tour $105

23rd January 2017
Left Fes heading for the Sahara. Up over the Middle and High Atlas Mountains. From the relatively fertile area of Fes through Mountain Cedar forest, complete with snow, to tussock grass lands, to absolutely no grass lands and finally to our hotel on the edge of the Erg Chebbi sand dunes. A long interesting drive. David pleased he was a passenger.
Four day/3 night Tour $1300 Nomadic Tribes Tour

Photo: Previous page:Fes, Tannery , Fes
This Page: Chefchouen

24th January 2018
A drive through some of the sand dunes before heading out into the Black Sahara. Stopped or tea at a very small Berber camp of 2 families. How anyone survives out here is a total mystery. Two small tents and a clay oven. No water, no electricity, no nothing. Moved on to a trench mine digging for mascarra. Little evidence of a coherent safety policy. More sightseeing before ending up on the back of a camel, riding into the dessert for the night. Peaceful.Watched the sunset from the highest of the sand dunes.

Photo: Ifrane picnics on side road & toboggan made of pallets, High
Atlas Mountains, Merzouga Sahara on Erg Chebbi sand dune,
Sahara
Next page: Nomadic Berber camp (had tea with natural suger
from flower -tree on next page)x2, lady gathering sticks black
desert, Aftrician band , old village, Berber pizza Yum

25th January 2018
Early start to watch the sunrise from the dunes. Cold. Back on the camels for the trek out. With no stirrups it can't be described as a comfortable ride. Over the plains between the Atlas Mountains to the Todra Gorge, and finishing at our Hotel in the Dades Gorge. Not a cloud in the sky, with snow on the high peaks and reaching about 18 degrees by day. I had read about the temperature plunge at sunset, but you need to experience it to truly understand it.

Photo: Sugar tree flower for sugar/leave tes/food camels,Sahara,our
camp,Sahara
Next page: Golden gate-Gate to Sahara,Sahara,Oasis between
Middle & High Altlas, Todra Gorge,dades Gorge

26th January 2018
Across the Atlas plains to Ouarzazate, the movie capital of Morocco. On to the Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah amazing view. Up over the Tizi n Ticha pass, the highest pass over the Atlas Mountains. Seriously poor on both sides of the pass. Down into Marrakech. Walk around main square lots of people and food stalls.
Aitbnb $79.76

27th January 2018
Walked the alleyways of the Marrakech medina. Thousands of tiny shops all selling the same stuff. Warm in the direct sun, but cold the rest of the time. Michele not well. Dogging motorbikes and fumes and witnessed donkey V motorbike 1-0 to donkey.

28th January 2018
Quite a night. Woke to the sound of burglars in the house. Michele yelled at them, which frightened them off, but not before they had stolen some of the owners brass and silver ornaments. Neither of us had a very good night, and with Michele still not feeling good, a very late start. Went to see the Bahia Palace, which is similar in style to Granadas Alahmbra but on a much smaller scale.

29th January 2018
A Skype with the kids so good start to a day. Caught the train out of Marrakech to Rabat. Taxi driver thought we needed a crash course in tourist rip offs. Fortunately the inter web had pre warned about this one 70 Dh to 50 Dh became 22 Dh as told him he need to use meter. Then the 10.45 train on the timetable simply didn't exist. Fortunately we were early enough for the earlier train 10.20 but only in second class. Actually not too bad. Multiple stops in the middle of nowhere for no apparent reason, but eventually got there 4 ¼ hr trip turned into 5 ½ . The poverty on the edges of Casablanca was in a league we hadn't seen before. Touch and go yesterday but it looks like Michele should live.
Airbnb $71.66
Photo: Previos page: High Atlas,Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah
Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah, villages

30th January 2018
Caught the tram into the old area of Rabat. Visited the Kasbah, gardens and the walled Medina. Very few western tourists, and so much less chaos than Fes or Marrakech. Wide streets and green spaces in the new city, and even the medina was more open. No motor bikes trying to kill you in alleys too narrow to walk, let alone ride, like in Marrakech. Everything about Rabat is cleaner, more modern and westernised, but still with the Moroccan charm.

31st January 2018
On the train heading back to Fes. While Rabat city centre was a reasonably clean city, rubbish dumps of plastic seems to be a recurring theme at the outskirts of each city we pass through. Needed the help of a local with a phone to find our accommodation, so the medina wins this round. Some showers and thunder which turns the street dust to a lovely slick mud.
Airbnb $54.84

1st & 2nd February 2018
Spent the 2 days taking in more of the sights and sounds (and smells) of the old city. We leave Morocco tomorrow, and while we have enjoyed the opportunity to experience a different culture on a different continent, we will be glad to be back more in our comfort zone. The constant attention that you get as a tourist is wearing, the dust & rubbish. We've been helped by some great people who have (literally) gone out of their way to help, just because they could. Unfortunately we've also met a few less charitable. I've

always been grateful for our rather privileged place in the world, and this has been a reminder of just how privileged that position is.

3rd February 2018
Out to the airport by local taxi. We survived, in spite of the best efforts of the driver. Back to Portugal.
Airbnb $71.68

4th February 2018
Back in Portugal at a nice little place near Alcobaca. Spent the day catching up on the mundane house work and the best showers in weeks and get rid of the dust.

Photo:Marrakesh Palace,
Jamaa el Fna Marrakesh Square, Rabat ,Fes x2

5th February 2018
Headed out to the beach at Nazare, the beach where they had the largest wave ever surfed. Windy and cold but a nice little beach town and sun.

6th February 2018
As the founding date of our great nation, a very important date for someone? A Skype with the kids, then spent the afternoon at Obidos, a really nice little ancient walled town.

7th February 2018
Spent the afternoon at Tomar, an interesting little town with a really well preserved Templar Castle and Monestary. Cold but clear, and hardly another tourist in sight.

8th February 2018
Decided to take a look at the local town of Alcobaca. An absolutely massive monestary and church dominate the town. Being monastic, the church is quite plain inside, which is a pleasant change from some of the over the top churches and cathedrals we've seen. Today was annual old folks day with a big marquee set up in the square and bus loads of oldies dropped off for an afternoon of loud music and ? activities. Got home and fired up the pellet burner which seemed smoky. Several investigations later found a cleaning rag smouldering underneath the burner but didn’t need to call fire brigade

Photo: Nazare x2,Obidos x2,Nazare,Tomar x2

9th February 2018
Cloudy with showers so a day at home - washing the clothes which now have that unmistakable aroma of campfire. Petrol one of the highest $ we have encountered in Europe Euro 1.36 about NZ$2.38 litre.

10th February 2018
Off to Leiria, a small historic town just north of here. Arrived in time for the Saturday market. Bought a pair of slippers each. 5 euro of luxury. Nice little town and castle. Dropped into Batalha to look at the Monestary. Two hundred years to build it and you can see why. So ornate.

11th February 2018
After a week it's time to move on again. Headed initially to the mountain town of Monsanto. Originally a Templar castle and village,

now a very cool little town with many houses built into, and around the granite rocks and boulders. On to Sortelha, another mountain town and castle, but this one built entirely from cut granite block. Spent the night in a hotel in Sabugal. Great room, terrible restaurant.
Hotel $100 (rubbish wifi)

12th February 2018
Breakfast included, so that takes care of lunch as well. Off to Piodao, another great little mountain village, but this one is all schist and slate. Each town entirely different and enjoyable for those differences. Down to two degrees in some of the valleys, but calm and clear. Headed for Porto, with an afternoon stop in Coimbra. Wandered through the university, and some of the historic centre. (Aldeias Historicas Portugal –Sabugal) Airbnb $82.19/night
Photos:Leiria,Batalha2,Alcobaca,Monsabto,Sortelha,Piodoa,Coimbra

13th February 2018
Our run of fine weather has finally abandoned us. Cold, showers and a bit miserable. Went out for a quick grocery shop, and managed to spend most of the afternoon at the shopping mall.

14th February 2018
The weather was worse than yesterday, so headed a half an hour up the coast to Pavoa, to check on Pacific Pacer (Roberts boat). Looking a little unloved after a couple of years laid up on the handstand.

15th February 2018
A bit damp, but we headed into Porto anyway just to market and shopping area with a few sights on the way. The first time our raincoats have got wet since Cordoba, over three months ago. For winter weather we've been so lucky.

16th February 2018
Headed back into Porto. Cloudy but dry. Visited the Ribeira area with the Railway station, Cathedral, old town and Eiffel bridge. We like northern Portugal, and Porto is no exception.

Photos: Porto

17th February 2018
Drove out to the coast, and down into Porto. Even on a calm day the coast is pretty rough. Rocky, with almost no sand. Wandered another area of Porto and enjoyed it as much as the previous two days. The cream cakes at the cafe help.

18th February 2018
Headed for Santiago de Compostela, via Guimaraes. Unfortunately being Sunday, most of the shops were closed, but the historic centre was still quite cool. Very tidy town.
Airbnb $78.92/night

19tth February 2018
Into Santiago de Compostela. The entire town centres on the Cathedral, with it's various convents and monestaries. Then the university wraps itself around that. Visited a photographic art

exhibition and even found time for some shopping.

20th February 2018
Not our greatest lodgings, and after a restless night headed for the northern, Atlantic coast. Stopped in A Coruna, before heading along the coast road, which is a long motorway type road, set back from the coast, so traveling a bit boring. Tried a bit of the actual coast road, but that was not much better than a farm track in some places. Cold and showers so a bit miserable.
Airbnb $71.03/night

21st February 2018
Took a drive along the coast to Ribadesella, a pleasant little port town. The tourist office staff was every bit as useless as at almost all the other Spanish tourist offices, so we went and found more interesting parts of the town ourselves. From there, up the valley to Covadonga, with its Basilica and holy cave chapel. Both quite extraordinary, particularly the chapel. On to Llanes, back out on the coast, a summer tourist beach town built around an ancient walled town. In spite of inclement weather, another pleasant stop. Compare this coast of Spain out of season, with the Mediterranean coast of Spain or worse, France, and it is chalk and cheese. Well stocked shops and cafes open for business, and inviting to go into.
Photos:Guimaraes,
Santiago de Compostela,Covadonga,Bilbao,Covadonga

22nd February 2018
Lunch at Bilbao Guggenheim art museum. What a building and surrounding park. Sadly our last day in Spain, and a long days travelling. Once again the coast road is nowhere near the coast, so it was occasional glimpses of the sea, with long passages through hilly farmland or through fairly nondescript towns, and a climb up through the Pyranees pass.
Airbnb $86.87

23rd February 2018
Went to pack the car this morning and it was covered in ice. The temperature never climbed above six degrees all day. Drove up to Muron, a small town near Rochefort on the Atlantic coast. After last nights disappointing accomodation, tonight we are in a beautiful little stone farm building conversion.
Airbnb $74.98/night

24th February 2018
Off to the Saturday market, and to have a look around Rochefort. Pleasant town, disappointing market. Half an hour north to La Rochelle, and surprise, another market. Eventually found parking a little way out of town, and wandered the market, historic centre, and city waterfront. We were invited to have dinner with our host family, which was really nice.

25th February 2018
Sad to move on. Such a nice cottage and hosts. Headed north again and stopped in Nantes. Seriously cold but a nice central city. On to our next stop at Mauron, west of Rennes. Another rural stone cottage, but with a modern interior. A rocky start when told there as no wifi, but that got sorted the next day.
Airbnb $59.92/night

Photos:Bilbao Guggenheim art museum,
La Rochelle,Nantes,Josselin,Carnac x2

26th February 2018
Dropped into Josselin, lovely town but being mid winter, nothing was open, so walked around the town before heading out to the coast to Carnac, to see the ancient stone structures and placements. Not what I was expecting, but interesting all the same. Dropped into Rochfort en Terre really pretty village, on the way home. Again cold. Minus 1 when we got into the car, and never went over 4 degrees all day. Back to zero by the time we got home.

27th February 2018
Started the day with multiple skypes. Headed into Rennes, which initially didn't particularly impress, but steadily grew on us. Went home the long way, through Fougeres which was a fantastic little stone village and Chateau. Went into the park where all the water features had frozen solid. On to Vitre, a smaller stone village, but the temperature was against us so we didn't stay very long.

28th February 2018
Negative six degrees when we hopped in the car and headed for Dinan, a lovely old town with a sports store selling gloves and more socks. On to Mont St Michel which is truly awesome. It just rises out of the sea and you can see it from miles away. The usual cluster of restaurants and tourist tatt shops at the entrance, but quite extraordinary when you get up a little higher. Zero degrees, and a wind chill factor of about minus 40 didn't encourage long panoramic views, but given the number of tourists there, I would hate to be there on a popular day. Home via St Malo further along the coast, an interesting place which is clearly catering for a wealthier clientele than us.

1st March 2018
Couldn’t do Europe without some snow,woke up to covering of snow and some snowfall in morning but light rain afternoon melted it. Weather forcasts are good in Europe so had planned for snow day and catch up on real life duties

Photos: Rennes,Fougeres,Mont Saint Michel,SNOW!!,Mont St Michel

2nd - 4th March 2018
Two days of bad weather including snow did drive around local area,shopping and ended up in Paimpont nice small village. Drove north along the Normandy coast to Barfleur, then along the Cherbourg coast, lovely stone villages. A little car park incident meant a wheel change (Chloe you may be able to work out what happened-history repeating :) ) an hour before we needed to be at the ferry, unload boot then didn’t all fit as had space saver spare , so back seat looked like a junk yard. Boarder issue with our Bilateral agreement for only NZers but after call they found out about Kiwis being special!!! Smile from customs officers.Just as well we were early. A quiet channel crossing (ferry crossings had been cancelled a few days before) and a night at a very nice Bournemouth B&B.
B&B $100/night
Photos:Paimpont,Cherbourg coast villages,Calm seas for crossing