If all goes to plan, this is our last day in southern Madagascar. During the night, the surf was up, booming sullenly on the reef and sounding curiously close all night.

We set off in the boat for the dive, but Luc thought the spinach soup of the Mozambique Channel was unappetising and too much like La Manche, so we returned to shore. The possibilities for activities are endless, so we walked North up the beach. The other options are South (done that), inland (done that), round in circles (why?) or snoozing, which we have perfected.

The new hotel bungalows further up the bay are similar, but even more basic, and less popular, so we joined the family for lunch, Chez Monique and Leb, in the stylish and comfortable restaurant (variations of course on a drift wood and bamboo theme). By the time we returned and had a swim, read and navigated the buckets and basins that make for the shower, investigated the digging of a new septic tank and admired that enthusiastic and melodious singing in the well-attended church, it was time for a sundowner.

Today’s tide was very low, drawing lots of locals to collect scallops and squid in the shallows. Children from about eight set off with their buckets and sticks. The girls in particular are totally joyful in their uninhibited singing, loudly, as they bend, scoop and move on, oblivious to whether anyone is listening or not. And the near-rags of the beachcombers is in marked contrast to the flounces and furbelows of the Sunday Best outfits for church. We could have occupied ourselves as our beach neighbours are - making a kitchen door curtain by threading shells onto fishing line. It’s currently hanging on their balcony and looks quite pretty, but transport could be a problem!
On our walk, we saw, presumably as a result of the rough weather, several starfish stranded up the beach. We carried the living ones back to the sea, some as far as 12” across, covered in scarlet spires. I hope they’re grateful.
This has been a very relaxing and regenerative chill out. Lots of sleep and books. Hang onto it!