Pierrot kept his word and a driver came for us about 10am and off we set for the King’s Palace, 26km out of Tana, at Ambohimanga (Blue Hill). This was the capital of the Merina royal family and there are photos of queens Ranavalona (1, 2 and 3) looking like small, dark Victorias. Indeed VR sent gifts, proudly displayed, such as a washbasin. What a practical monarch! Although the place is very simple, it has religious significance for pilgrims from all over the country and it does have a very serene atmosphere, at peace with itself. It’s a very long, hot climb, which may be a factor in the heady experience. The King’s bed is a high bunk affair, shared with “wife of the week”, whilst the others (all eleven) slept below. Kinky? Or style-cramping? Competitive? Technique-sharing?

Our driver, after helping us to buy the dark Robert chocolate for work (we bought the entire stock of three different shops) dropped us at the airport to do battle with the anarchic systems of international travel. These culminated in the airport bar accepting only foreign (i.e. not Malagasy) currency. Fortunately, the female loo attendant did favourable rates from her many international purses and I acquired sufficient Rand for a drink at Jo’burg, but we had such a delay, then they hadn’t checked our bags through to London, so we were racing to catch the plane. Again.

The flight back was one of the most disagreeable we’ve ever taken - the air con broke down and Adrian’s headphone socket was bust. Eleven hours of hot, airless tedium in centre seats at the back of a 747. Banbury was a relief after over two days of travelling, but it was a terrific holiday experience. Where next?