Doubtful Sound

Day 14, Friday and we left picturesque Queenstown and travelled to Lake Manapouri. From the dock at Lake Manapouri, a catamaran took us right across the water to West Arm, a distance of 30 odd kms (I estimated) where we transferred to a bus. That bus drove up through Wilmot Pass and then down to the shore of an arm of Doubtful Sound. Awaiting us was the Fiordland Navigator onto which we embarked on an overnight cruise of the sound. The weather was fine although it was misty and much cooler once we arrived at the ship. This is the description of the experience taken from the website of the company running the show.

“The Fiordland Navigator offers a very special dinner, bed and breakfast wilderness experience.
Begin with a transfer, then cruise across the crystal waters of Lake Manapouri to West Arm before boarding a coach and crossing the alpine route of Wilmot Pass through some of Fiordland’s most dense

rainforest.

The overnight vessel, the Fiordland Navigator, is purpose built for these waters to accommodate passengers either in private cabins with ensuite bathrooms or in quad-share bunk style compartments with shared bathroom facilities. The Navigator has spacious deck areas offering stunning views of waterfalls, abundant wildlife, rainforest and mountains.

Doubtful Sound is home to bottlenose dolphins and fur seals and when in season, the rare Fiordland crested penguin. An onboard nature guide with specialist knowledge of the region’s history, flora and fauna provides detailed interpretation in English with a roving microphone. Activities include kayaking and excursions in the tender vessels to explore the coastline.

The ship then anchors overnight in one of Doubtful Sound’s hidden arms. The overnight cruise includes a three-course buffet evening meal and beverages are sold at the licensed onboard bar. The next morning, following a cooked or continental breakfast, there is time for further cruising before returning to Deep Cove and retracing the steps back to Manapouri. “

It reads well and it was a terrific experience but one that is more suited to nature enthusiasts and those able to take advantage of kayaking, swimming in very crisp, cool waters and using the rubber inflatables available. Our group did take advantage of the powered inflatables under strict supervision of the staff but the facilities for kayaking and swimming were not used.

We had a comfortable cabin with its own ensuite. Twin beds were in our cabin, some had double beds.

I had caught a cold that has gone through the coach. One person started with it and not many have missed it. Lesley and Joan had yet to succumb. I put that down to the Vicks which they have wisely used copiously to ward off the bugs both airborne and surface. So after the mandatory safety briefing, I retired to the cabin for a LLD. I awoke later in the arvo feeling much better. We made our way to the main deck for soup which I think was at about 5.30pm. I remember we had soup as the kayakers and swimmers gradually wandered in. However, I am stuffed if I can remember much else for about 90 minutes after I regained consciousness.

Someone suggested a drink and that seemed to help me emerge from my stupor. I noticed that the scenery was pretty decent with steep mountains and thick forests and undergrowth reaching upwards on either side of the boat. The skipper announced we were steering toward the mouth of Doubtful Sound and into the open Tasman Sea. A few who suffer from mal de mer were very apprehensive. There was an ongoing commentary from a staff nature expert for those interested.

Near the Doubtful Sound entrance from the Tasman Sea was a group of rocks. They cannot be called islands as they had no vegetation if I heard correctly. On these rocks were seals lounging about planning their evening’s activities. That was a hit and the sighting of an albatross was greeted with much enthusiasm. Bird life was plentiful and many varieties were identified. Now, I probably give the impression of cynicism but while I was not interested, many were and I was happy for them. I am being 100% genuine when I write that. It’s just not my cup of tea. If the same group was at the races, the horses would have my full attention and the others would be ambivalent.

Anyway, the skipper changed course and we re-entered the smoother waters of Doubtful Sound. The nature commentary and study continued until dinner, a buffet, was served at around 7.30pm. The buffet was nice enough, with plenty to eat coupled with a quiet drink or two.

After dinner, there was a further nature session incorporating a slide show on the flora and fauna of the Fiordland as this part of Southern New Zealand is known. I politely excused myself and retired to the cabin. My good lady wife almost beat me to the door. Yet another day was over.