Helz On Ice

"Those that aren't anchored will fall to the bottom of the earth"
-Local Antarctica saying

0600 14th March
My alarm rings but I am already wide awake , lying in bed watching the sunrise meet the lakes edge. The day has arrived . Deployment day .
The phone breaks the dawn silence , reception sends message , 'Flight delayed one hour , new pick up time 0800'. I relax into my coffee and wonder if this is the start of a touch and go trip, somehow though I have the feeling we will be arriving on the ice today.
Meeting the other two kiwis (whom had been in Iso as well) on the shuttle to the Antarctic Centre . We are so excited just to be around other people and even more excited to be apart of the very few who get to deploy to the frozen continent.
Arriving to the centre you are greeted by the snow machines on display outside and on entry the flags of the Treaty's nations hang above your head .You don't get much time to take it all in or look around .Men are ushered into one room and us separated to another . This is where you are to put on your EWC (extreme weather clothing).The required clothing consist of big warm socks , thermal leggings , fleece pants , thermal long sleeve , street wear shirt, fleece jersey , windproof overalls then the famous big red parka , don't forget about the big white bunny boots ,2 pairs of gloves , googles , balaclava , bonnet and neck sleeve. Mean while it is a beautiful 20 degree Christchurch morning outside . There is a energy building in the room , bags are being opened , shuffled , repacked and weighed. 2 checked bags , a carry on bag , *boomerang bag , myself in all the EWC gear comes to a solid 135kg. The RNZAF bloke doesn't bat an eye lash , I am handed a boarding pass necklace and continue to the waiting area where we watch a short film on what the USA expect of us and how to negate boarding and todays departure. The cohort 7 group are all friendly and chatty , we all share that "butterfly' in the stomach feeling ,even the returnees/ veterans have that look in their eye , almost like they are returning home . Hoping off our bus to the RNZAF 757 , it is all about comfort with this aircraft, expecting a Herc or C-17 , we have definitely lucked out with this top of the line passenger plane . To my absolute delight the air force staff are even serving coffee !!.
We get a row of seats to ourselves , being only 40 people on a 180 seater -dream result .
The captain announces a flight time of 4.5 hours and the *turn around time being 3.10 hours into our flight, 'smooth sailing' are the words the pilots signs off with . A trip that can take between 5 -8 hours (aircraft dependent) seems luck is on our side today .
The flight is quick I take the opportunity to write and before I know it I look up to find everyone are up out of their seats and pinned to the windows ... I am up and to the side ... the first sight of the continent is indescribable .. I find it hard to create the words needed. I was speechless and in awe . The vast expanse of white , snow ,ice shelfs , ice walls, mountains for miles , glaciers as far you can see. Ice bergs the size of houses . Nothing quite prepares you for that first time flying over Antarctica . I don't actually remember thinking , just sitting there face on the window lost in what I was seeing . It really didn't seem real . There are giggles being shared around the cabin , high fives and hugs . It truly truly is something else. Everyone from that point seem weirdly quiet . They return to their seats . I see the returnees check their watches and then they start to get dressed into their EWC ... I take the opportunity to ask the guy next to me "what is happening ?" he reply's with a cheeky grin , "we have crossed our turn around point maam , we will be landing today and they are cooling the cabin down for arrival , it is time to get into your EWC ".
The landing was a smooth one , and the conditions at Phoenix Airfield were near perfect . Taking that first step on to the ice was something I cant recreate and I am taking it all in as best as I can. The cold wasn't as surprising as I had thought it might be , expecting it to take my breath away . The EWC kept me more than warm ,not a breath of wind . I was so ecstatic to be greeted by clear sky's and a gorgeous sunny day .
The bus that takes us home to Mcmurdo is the famous 'Ivan' I will check if that is correct but if you have heard anything from anyone that has been down here ,this always a fond memory for most . Ivan is this hickory old bus , slow and full of character .We pile in and everyone is talking to each other , strangers for now but a future family already forming . I don't think at this point we could be happier . We are here . We are in Antarctica.

Sunday 20th 1500
I sit here a week later , it has been a ride . A culture shock and I am letting it all happen to me with open arms .
I am constantly thirsty . That seems to be the first thing I want to tell you . I can not drink enough water!
Monday was a day of introductions ,familiarizations and tours . My crew ( B Shift) meet me , help me pick up my luggage and we spend most the evening at the Fire Department (FD) .This will be my new home . Already I love it , the walls are lined with photos of the old . Other crews whom have wintered here. Badges and flags , memorabilia everywhere.
So American and I love it . Its not a very big building but perfect for the Fire House Family . The appliances are all ready to go and I can feel the days ahead are going to be full of learning.
Checking into my room . I am part of building 208 up stairs on the second floor only a short walk to work (100m). The lodgings here are all two story and only a few of them will be full over this winter .
The town is hard to describe to those that haven't been here . The best I can do is to liken it to that of an American collage . Like on the movies . The big building 155 has the Galley( food hall/mess) all you can eat 24/7 from breakfast station to deli and pizza bar including ice-cream and waffles . A long hall way connects you to ATMs , a shop , barber , and other services .There is an internal T.V that has about 8 channel's for the town .It continually screens the weather , Mcmurdo news and events , a movie channel on daily repeat. Menu and meal timings etc.
The other buildings that are central are a big gym and then a weight room . A empty bar called "Southern" set up as a bar that anyone can come and use . I am told "Gallagher's " a staffed bar will be open after the last flight out.
Tuesday & Wednesday- Full days learnings from appropriate Search and Rescue training to cold injury and medical training ... my brain converting everything I know from inches, pounds, miles ,,gallons psi, not to mention HELEN drive on the right ! drive on the right ! Walk on the right , get in to vehicles on the left . How long will it take for my brain to adjust to that .
Then banter between the kiwis and 'mericans" is constant and its fun . I spend most of my time laughing or explaining my language ,and repeating myself (maybe I talk to fast I think to myself)
Thursday I started my 48 hours on shift . Learning the Engine (fire truck) is some what the same but different. The fundamentals all being the same with a common goal in mind just different slang and small differences so for the most part I feel I am picking it up as best I can so far . I have the best people around me. Its seems we are from all over and being most of us having never done a winter , there is a patience and understanding that we will take the time to learn in a way to bring everyone up to speed in order to be on the same wave length.
A highlight in training this week being the penguin herding class , yes you heard correct . You must be certified to ush penguins if they are in danger or in the way of harmful activity . The adelie penguins being cheeky and curious are often making their way to check you out or get in the way of machinery or even worse the incoming flights . I do look forward to this call out . I have spotted the big emperor penguins waiting the last weeks before they head further South hanging in their usual spot beside Scotts base down the road (3km ish ) .I do hope for the opportunity to see all these animals up close if the opportunity allows or if there is enough daylight left to do so.
The light is still here and is mostly light until 11pm and then again about 6am . My understanding is that slowly it becomes twilight for months then after April 19 the last sunset It will be the dark months .
Yesterday morning coming off shift , the PT lady tells us about the famous T3 syndrome that can affect some people in the Winter Over ' a lack of sunlight can cause zombie like conditions and what we can do to combat it .
I will make sure to take my VitD and make use of the 'Happy Light' room which has artificial sunlight bulbs for those needing a hit .
Ok for some straight up honesty . The transition has been an interesting one. While I am loving everyone here they are all so polite , being called "maam" often , the doors being opened for me all the time, they end their sentences with "I appreciate you" I mean how niceeee is that haha. Aside from that , I am thoroughly enjoying the Fire Department and the USA way . I am being mentally challenged in every way .
However my body in this environment is playing major catchup . My joints and bones seem to be sore and niggly, thirst is a constant , 20 minutes in the gym feels like 3 hours of effort. It takes 10 extra minutes to leave anywhere because of the layers you must wear before transitioning to outside . Learning that there is zero humidity and being the driest and dustiest place on earth it takes some time to get used to and I guess I have to acclimatize .It has been compared to altitude training and I can not wait to adjust so I can get into a routine and so I can make the most out of this winter season .
Climbing Observation Hill yesterday was a awesome way to finish the first week . This is where Scotts memorial cross is and has 360 degree views of Mt Erebus (Worlds most southern active volcano) . A short but sturdy climb , negotiating ice and scree it is well worth the breath taking views . Scotts base , Black island, Hutt point and a spectacular view of Mcmurdo township makes the climb worth it . Be sure to wrap up ! The wind chill in the negative 20s catches the novice out quickly .
Tomorrow I am back on my 48 B shift and is a big day for the town . The last flight leaves with the remaining 70 summer staff. The last flight means the last of the fresh fruit and vege, the last of the mail delivery's and the last flight out of here until August . It also means no more social distancing , daily temperature checks and mask wearing . Safe to say tomorrow is a big day . The fire fighters that have been handing over the reigns this week leave and we are all new to the winter season here and should make for fun times ahead . It will be all hands on deck for tomorrows significant flight . I am told It is just me and my LT(lieutenant) left to watch over the town haha while the rest of the guys head out to the air field for response for the aircrafts safe arrival and departure .
Lets hope the weather plays ball .
We haven't endured anything to crazy weather wise since my arrival . There has been two days of snow and that is something special to experience . The wind is awful and deathly & carry's with it dust and rock, however everyone gets really excited with the thought of a *con 1 storm experience .
As I reflect on the week sitting , Initially it took some getting used to only having laptop access to minimal internet services , my cellphone can only now be used as a alarm clock and camera . I am doing my best to reach out when I can but it is so refreshing to be in the company of others where there is not one phone in sight . Really is quite liberating but at first it felt quite isolating which is expected at the bottom of the world right.
All part of the experience, I will do my best to give you a very real insight into this world .

#Sunday Brunch Day in the galley is the best and as Cap says(my FD captain) is not to be missed as a rule
#The coffee house (barista coffee) are my new favorite people
#diesel does not freeze but holds the temperature of its environment so if gets on your skin will cause instant frost bite
#I am a natural at shuffle board
#humidifiers are life

*Boomerang bag -a bag that can be pulled off the aircraft if the flight is unsuccessful, the rest of your luggage staying on the plane until the flight is cleared for another departure time or date
*Turn around time during the flight means that at that time if it is unsafe to land due to the ground conditions the plane will turn around for home so must carry enough fuel for the flight there & back
*The weather conditions are measured in 3 category's , normal conditions as the past week has been has been Con 3 , Con 2 would be a storm with cold and windy conditions but we can transition between buildings, Con 1 is lock down , hurricane forced conditions ,no travel aloud at all.

Helenne Waterworth

9 chapters

7 Mar 2022

Operation Deep Freeze

March 20, 2022

|

Mcmurdo Station

"Those that aren't anchored will fall to the bottom of the earth"
-Local Antarctica saying

0600 14th March
My alarm rings but I am already wide awake , lying in bed watching the sunrise meet the lakes edge. The day has arrived . Deployment day .
The phone breaks the dawn silence , reception sends message , 'Flight delayed one hour , new pick up time 0800'. I relax into my coffee and wonder if this is the start of a touch and go trip, somehow though I have the feeling we will be arriving on the ice today.
Meeting the other two kiwis (whom had been in Iso as well) on the shuttle to the Antarctic Centre . We are so excited just to be around other people and even more excited to be apart of the very few who get to deploy to the frozen continent.
Arriving to the centre you are greeted by the snow machines on display outside and on entry the flags of the Treaty's nations hang above your head .You don't get much time to take it all in or look around .Men are ushered into one room and us separated to another . This is where you are to put on your EWC (extreme weather clothing).The required clothing consist of big warm socks , thermal leggings , fleece pants , thermal long sleeve , street wear shirt, fleece jersey , windproof overalls then the famous big red parka , don't forget about the big white bunny boots ,2 pairs of gloves , googles , balaclava , bonnet and neck sleeve. Mean while it is a beautiful 20 degree Christchurch morning outside . There is a energy building in the room , bags are being opened , shuffled , repacked and weighed. 2 checked bags , a carry on bag , *boomerang bag , myself in all the EWC gear comes to a solid 135kg. The RNZAF bloke doesn't bat an eye lash , I am handed a boarding pass necklace and continue to the waiting area where we watch a short film on what the USA expect of us and how to negate boarding and todays departure. The cohort 7 group are all friendly and chatty , we all share that "butterfly' in the stomach feeling ,even the returnees/ veterans have that look in their eye , almost like they are returning home . Hoping off our bus to the RNZAF 757 , it is all about comfort with this aircraft, expecting a Herc or C-17 , we have definitely lucked out with this top of the line passenger plane . To my absolute delight the air force staff are even serving coffee !!.
We get a row of seats to ourselves , being only 40 people on a 180 seater -dream result .
The captain announces a flight time of 4.5 hours and the *turn around time being 3.10 hours into our flight, 'smooth sailing' are the words the pilots signs off with . A trip that can take between 5 -8 hours (aircraft dependent) seems luck is on our side today .
The flight is quick I take the opportunity to write and before I know it I look up to find everyone are up out of their seats and pinned to the windows ... I am up and to the side ... the first sight of the continent is indescribable .. I find it hard to create the words needed. I was speechless and in awe . The vast expanse of white , snow ,ice shelfs , ice walls, mountains for miles , glaciers as far you can see. Ice bergs the size of houses . Nothing quite prepares you for that first time flying over Antarctica . I don't actually remember thinking , just sitting there face on the window lost in what I was seeing . It really didn't seem real . There are giggles being shared around the cabin , high fives and hugs . It truly truly is something else. Everyone from that point seem weirdly quiet . They return to their seats . I see the returnees check their watches and then they start to get dressed into their EWC ... I take the opportunity to ask the guy next to me "what is happening ?" he reply's with a cheeky grin , "we have crossed our turn around point maam , we will be landing today and they are cooling the cabin down for arrival , it is time to get into your EWC ".
The landing was a smooth one , and the conditions at Phoenix Airfield were near perfect . Taking that first step on to the ice was something I cant recreate and I am taking it all in as best as I can. The cold wasn't as surprising as I had thought it might be , expecting it to take my breath away . The EWC kept me more than warm ,not a breath of wind . I was so ecstatic to be greeted by clear sky's and a gorgeous sunny day .
The bus that takes us home to Mcmurdo is the famous 'Ivan' I will check if that is correct but if you have heard anything from anyone that has been down here ,this always a fond memory for most . Ivan is this hickory old bus , slow and full of character .We pile in and everyone is talking to each other , strangers for now but a future family already forming . I don't think at this point we could be happier . We are here . We are in Antarctica.

Sunday 20th 1500
I sit here a week later , it has been a ride . A culture shock and I am letting it all happen to me with open arms .
I am constantly thirsty . That seems to be the first thing I want to tell you . I can not drink enough water!
Monday was a day of introductions ,familiarizations and tours . My crew ( B Shift) meet me , help me pick up my luggage and we spend most the evening at the Fire Department (FD) .This will be my new home . Already I love it , the walls are lined with photos of the old . Other crews whom have wintered here. Badges and flags , memorabilia everywhere.
So American and I love it . Its not a very big building but perfect for the Fire House Family . The appliances are all ready to go and I can feel the days ahead are going to be full of learning.
Checking into my room . I am part of building 208 up stairs on the second floor only a short walk to work (100m). The lodgings here are all two story and only a few of them will be full over this winter .
The town is hard to describe to those that haven't been here . The best I can do is to liken it to that of an American collage . Like on the movies . The big building 155 has the Galley( food hall/mess) all you can eat 24/7 from breakfast station to deli and pizza bar including ice-cream and waffles . A long hall way connects you to ATMs , a shop , barber , and other services .There is an internal T.V that has about 8 channel's for the town .It continually screens the weather , Mcmurdo news and events , a movie channel on daily repeat. Menu and meal timings etc.
The other buildings that are central are a big gym and then a weight room . A empty bar called "Southern" set up as a bar that anyone can come and use . I am told "Gallagher's " a staffed bar will be open after the last flight out.
Tuesday & Wednesday- Full days learnings from appropriate Search and Rescue training to cold injury and medical training ... my brain converting everything I know from inches, pounds, miles ,,gallons psi, not to mention HELEN drive on the right ! drive on the right ! Walk on the right , get in to vehicles on the left . How long will it take for my brain to adjust to that .
Then banter between the kiwis and 'mericans" is constant and its fun . I spend most of my time laughing or explaining my language ,and repeating myself (maybe I talk to fast I think to myself)
Thursday I started my 48 hours on shift . Learning the Engine (fire truck) is some what the same but different. The fundamentals all being the same with a common goal in mind just different slang and small differences so for the most part I feel I am picking it up as best I can so far . I have the best people around me. Its seems we are from all over and being most of us having never done a winter , there is a patience and understanding that we will take the time to learn in a way to bring everyone up to speed in order to be on the same wave length.
A highlight in training this week being the penguin herding class , yes you heard correct . You must be certified to ush penguins if they are in danger or in the way of harmful activity . The adelie penguins being cheeky and curious are often making their way to check you out or get in the way of machinery or even worse the incoming flights . I do look forward to this call out . I have spotted the big emperor penguins waiting the last weeks before they head further South hanging in their usual spot beside Scotts base down the road (3km ish ) .I do hope for the opportunity to see all these animals up close if the opportunity allows or if there is enough daylight left to do so.
The light is still here and is mostly light until 11pm and then again about 6am . My understanding is that slowly it becomes twilight for months then after April 19 the last sunset It will be the dark months .
Yesterday morning coming off shift , the PT lady tells us about the famous T3 syndrome that can affect some people in the Winter Over ' a lack of sunlight can cause zombie like conditions and what we can do to combat it .
I will make sure to take my VitD and make use of the 'Happy Light' room which has artificial sunlight bulbs for those needing a hit .
Ok for some straight up honesty . The transition has been an interesting one. While I am loving everyone here they are all so polite , being called "maam" often , the doors being opened for me all the time, they end their sentences with "I appreciate you" I mean how niceeee is that haha. Aside from that , I am thoroughly enjoying the Fire Department and the USA way . I am being mentally challenged in every way .
However my body in this environment is playing major catchup . My joints and bones seem to be sore and niggly, thirst is a constant , 20 minutes in the gym feels like 3 hours of effort. It takes 10 extra minutes to leave anywhere because of the layers you must wear before transitioning to outside . Learning that there is zero humidity and being the driest and dustiest place on earth it takes some time to get used to and I guess I have to acclimatize .It has been compared to altitude training and I can not wait to adjust so I can get into a routine and so I can make the most out of this winter season .
Climbing Observation Hill yesterday was a awesome way to finish the first week . This is where Scotts memorial cross is and has 360 degree views of Mt Erebus (Worlds most southern active volcano) . A short but sturdy climb , negotiating ice and scree it is well worth the breath taking views . Scotts base , Black island, Hutt point and a spectacular view of Mcmurdo township makes the climb worth it . Be sure to wrap up ! The wind chill in the negative 20s catches the novice out quickly .
Tomorrow I am back on my 48 B shift and is a big day for the town . The last flight leaves with the remaining 70 summer staff. The last flight means the last of the fresh fruit and vege, the last of the mail delivery's and the last flight out of here until August . It also means no more social distancing , daily temperature checks and mask wearing . Safe to say tomorrow is a big day . The fire fighters that have been handing over the reigns this week leave and we are all new to the winter season here and should make for fun times ahead . It will be all hands on deck for tomorrows significant flight . I am told It is just me and my LT(lieutenant) left to watch over the town haha while the rest of the guys head out to the air field for response for the aircrafts safe arrival and departure .
Lets hope the weather plays ball .
We haven't endured anything to crazy weather wise since my arrival . There has been two days of snow and that is something special to experience . The wind is awful and deathly & carry's with it dust and rock, however everyone gets really excited with the thought of a *con 1 storm experience .
As I reflect on the week sitting , Initially it took some getting used to only having laptop access to minimal internet services , my cellphone can only now be used as a alarm clock and camera . I am doing my best to reach out when I can but it is so refreshing to be in the company of others where there is not one phone in sight . Really is quite liberating but at first it felt quite isolating which is expected at the bottom of the world right.
All part of the experience, I will do my best to give you a very real insight into this world .

#Sunday Brunch Day in the galley is the best and as Cap says(my FD captain) is not to be missed as a rule
#The coffee house (barista coffee) are my new favorite people
#diesel does not freeze but holds the temperature of its environment so if gets on your skin will cause instant frost bite
#I am a natural at shuffle board
#humidifiers are life

*Boomerang bag -a bag that can be pulled off the aircraft if the flight is unsuccessful, the rest of your luggage staying on the plane until the flight is cleared for another departure time or date
*Turn around time during the flight means that at that time if it is unsafe to land due to the ground conditions the plane will turn around for home so must carry enough fuel for the flight there & back
*The weather conditions are measured in 3 category's , normal conditions as the past week has been has been Con 3 , Con 2 would be a storm with cold and windy conditions but we can transition between buildings, Con 1 is lock down , hurricane forced conditions ,no travel aloud at all.

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