Chapter 2 - London and Canterbury

Saturday, August 13, 2022

After a traditional English breakfast at our hotel in Portsmouth, we took the 10:11 am train on the Southwestern Railway for London Victoria Station. We passed through beautiful countryside although it's less green than usual since England is experiencing it's worst drought in 50 years. About half-way to London we passed Arundel Castle situated in the

small town of Arundel (photo) - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arundel_Castle. The fortress was established by a cousin of William the Conqueror to control the local Saxon population and guard an access route from the coast to London.

During the train ride, we had a wonderful chat with a young man, Alex, who is a partner in a gardening and landscaping business in the area. They do the gardening for the likes of Keith Richards of The Rolling Stones and Kate Winslet. He was a very practical, down-to-earth guy - we had an interesting conversation about Prime Ministers and Presidents.

We arrived in London about noon. Our hotel, the Doubletree London Victoria, was an easy walk from the train station. After checking in and a short rest we walked about a mile to Buckingham Palace (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckingham_Palace) for the 2:40 pm tour. The Palace is not air-conditioned (it was about 90 degrees in London) and inside the building was oppressively hot and humid. We toured the State Rooms: Ambassador's Entrance, Grand Staircase, Throne Room, the Picture Gallery, the Green, Blue, and White Drawing Rooms, the Music Room, the Ballroom Supper Room, the Formal Dining Room, the Ballroom, and the Marble Hall. The highlight of the tour was the display of the Queen's tiaras, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and brooches which she has worn on state occasions during her 70-year reign. Unfortunately, no pictures are allowed inside the palace. The photo is the back of Buckingham Palace that faces the garden.

After the tour we accepted the offer of a bicyclist taxi back to the hotel (Photo). It was nice to just order room service and make it an early night.

Sunday, August 14, 2022

Following another traditional English breakfast (Photo). we walked back to London Victoria Station (Photo). The train to Canterbury on the Southeastern Railway was delayed leaving the station. The two hour trip to Canterbury East Station again passed through beautiful countryside with lots of corn,

orchards, and vineyards. Along the way we passed through Rochester along the Medway River and got a good view of Rochester Castle on a hill above the town (Photo).

When we arrived in Canterbury, there was one taxi waiting. When we told him where we wanted to go, he said "Oh, it's just over the bridge, about a 10 minute walk." He decided to accept the next fare instead of us. We made the walk pulling and carrying our luggage and arrived at the Hampton by Hilton. The hotel turned out to be a very modern hidden gem right in the center of Canterbury. And, thankfully well air-conditioned. After a short rest, we walked around Canterbury and were able to see the Canterbury Cathedral towers in the distance. It's a very walkable town.

We had a late lunch at the Cote Brassiere. The crab salad on a bed of cucumbers and radishes and mussels in cream sauce with shallots and garlic were delicious. About 5:15 pm the Cathedral's 20 bells rang for about 10 minutes. Question of the day: "Why do the Cathedral bells ring at 5:15 pm?

Bruce spend the next hour or so talking to AT&T agents in the U.S. trying for the second time in two days to get an old iPhone 5s - which was purchased unlocked directly from Apple in 2013 - unlocked so he could install a UK Vodaphone SIM card. We had a late dinner at Mezzo. The small plates of garlic cheese bread, hummus, and tzatziki were very good.

Monday, August 15, 2022

We spent about three hours walking around Canterbury within the walls. We found Lady Wootens Green with the statues of King Ethelbert and Queen Bertha of Kent. (Photo) Queen Bertha's influence brought Christianity to England around 580 A.D. Prior to that, England had been pagan. She worshiped at St. Martin's Church which had previously been a Roman church. This is the oldest church in the English-speaking world where worship has taken place continuously since the time of Queen Bertha. We visited the grounds and cemetery of St. Martin's Church but were unable to go inside (Photo) - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Martin%27s_Church_Canterbury.

We accidentally found the entrance to the King's school Canterbury which is an upper level (starting at 9th grade) co-educational, private school. Most students board on campus. We had a chat with the guard but weren't allowed on campus. We did learn the gesture for "it's very expensive" is universal! Tuition is 13,655 pounds a term ($16,440 in U.S. dollars). From what we could see it's a beautiful campus.

We also visited the ruins of St. Augustine's Abbey which was established in 597 A.D. by Augustine, a monk who was chosen by Pope Gregory in Rome to lead a mission to Britain and then became the first Archbishop of Canterbury (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Augustine%27s_Abbey). The Abbey flourished and grew and at one time owned over 19,000 acres of estates in England. Unfortunately, we now run into Henry the VIII again. He suppressed the monasteries during the 16th Century to take over their income, dispose of their assets, and basically plunder anything he could from these religious institutions. He also made himself the head of the Church of England. The Abbey is now basically ruins but it's interesting to imagine what life was like at it's heyday. (Photos).

Around 4 pm we had an early supper at Oscar and Bentley's, reportedly the best traditional fish and chips and mushy peas in Canterbury. Afterward we walked around a nearby M&S grocery and clothing store. They have a great selection of prepared foods that we may want to consider later.