Chapter 4 - Dover, Canterbury Town Center and Whitstable

Dover, Canterbury Town Center, and Whitstable

Friday, August 19, 2022

After breakfast, we met with the Hampton Sales Manager to sort out a reservations glitch. It took about an hour (waiting and talking). We took the local Stagecoach bus to Dover at 11:10 AM. It was a 30-minute trip. The day was cloudy and windy. We found the walkway to Dover Castle with the help of an older local woman who told us she had already had a swim in the sea that morning. The walk to the Castle was a steep incline with several staircases along the cool, lush path (Photo 4 - 1). We arrived at the visitor gate to the Dover Castle at about noon.

We walked about the castle grounds for about 2 hours.

The castle tower sits high atop the White Cliffs (Photo 4 - 2). The medieval castle was built in the late 1100s by Henry II (the father of King Richard the Lionheart and John of Robin Hood fame). It was the second largest fortress in England. (History Question: What fortress-castle was larger?) It was built to guard the eastern end of the English Channel and is about 22 miles across the channel from Calais. Sarah climbed the 5-story staircase to the top of the Central Tower with expansive views from the top (Photos 4 - 3 and 4 - 4). Bruce chatted with a Castle docent who was very knowledgeable - Bruce has found his people.

During World War II, Dover Castle was the headquarters to a Royal Navy contingent of the Channel Fleet. Flag Officer Bertram Ramsey oversaw Operation Dynamo from its

underground tunnels. Operation Dynamo was the evacuation of the British Expeditionary Forces from the beaches of Dunkirk in May 1940. We walked to an observation tower near Ramsey's statue and got some good view of the white cliffs of Dover (Photo 4 - 5). Unfortunately, we were not able to do the tunnel tour.

About 2 PM, we caught the bus back to Canterbury - the trip down the stairs was much easier! We had a traditional fish and chips lunch at the City Fish Market in Canterbury. Back at the hotel, we watched the movie, The Darkest Hour. About 7 PM we went to Cotes for a cheese and meat board and turned in for an early night.

Saturday, August 20, 2022

We both slept well and went to Tiny Tim’s Tea Room for late breakfast: smoked salmon platter (Bruce) and a Plump-Pilgrim Scone (their specialty) with house-blend tea (Sarah). We spent the morning walking around Canterbury Town Center for a couple of hours. Bruce visited the Kent Museum of Freemasonry (Photo 4 - 6) (https://kentmuseumoffreemasonry.org.uk) and Sarah walked about Westgate Gardens along the River Stour (Photos 4 - 7 and 4 - 8). We then met up and toured the Canterbury Roman Museum (https://canterburymuseums.co.uk/canterbury-roman-museum/) on Old Butchery Road (Photo 4 - 9). Canterbury was

originally a Roman town until around 400 A.D. when the Romans abandoned the city. Subsequent generations have built on top of the old Roman ruins. In fact, in the lobby of our hotel there is a see through area in the floor where the ruins of the old Roman Theater can be seen.

Canterbury is also known for its contributions to literature. There are references to Chaucer, Marlowe, and Charles Dickens all over town. One plaque references Charles Dickens giving a public reading of David Copperfield on November 4, 1861. On the old Bell Tower there is a plaque that says "Christopher Marlowe, dramatist, baptized in this church 26th of February 1564 (Photo 4 - 10). The local Theater which hosts Broadway shows is named Marlowe Theater.

Dinner was at Socialite Canterbury (https://socialitecanterbury.com): scallops ceviche and chateaubriand. The views from the rooftop restaurant were spectacular (Photo 4 - 11).

Sunday, August 21, 2022

We took the bus going to Whitstable but ended up making a complete circle of bus route five. We did go through Whitstable but missed our stop and ended up back in Canterbury after an hour and half tour of the area northeast of Canterbury. We had lunch at Bill's - Bruce had sea bass Florentine and Sarah had a chicken shawarma. Feeling better, we decided we might try Whitstable again on Monday.

Monday, August 22, 2022

We took triangle bus to Whitstable this time and got off at the Horsebridge bus stop. Just a short walk through Red Lion Lane took us to the Whitstable Oyster House. We sat on the patio overlooking the beach and the Thames Estuary and ate lunch. We had oysters on the half shell, baked oysters, and mussels in local cider with cream, shallots, and mustard. All were delicious.

Sarah walked along the boardwalk for about 40 minutes. The tide was out but colorful sea shacks and sea cottages lined the

boardwalk (Photos 4 - 12, 4 - 13, 4 - 14). Bruce found the meat market and talked to the butcher. He also found the fish and cheese markets but both were closed. He asked someone why Whitstable was so busy and was told it was because school starts in early September and everyone was trying to get a last trip to the beach.

We caught the bus back to Canterbury and had a late snack at Cotes. Our two favorite restaurants in Canterbury have been Cotes Brasserie and Pinnochio's. There have been a several oddities about the food - the scrambled eggs in Canterbury have been almost orange. And, the restaurants serve mayonnaise with any fish dish. They serve a cheese on the menus called Halloumi, typically a mixture of goat's and sheep's milk with a high melting point. Lastly, they serve something called a "rocket" salad. Extra points to anyone who figures that one out.

Tuesday, August 23, 2022

At 9:24 AM, we caught the fast speed train from Canterbury West Station to London St. Pancras International Station connecting to our train to Edinburgh at Kings Cross Station (just across the street from St. Pancras). We made it just as the doors closed for the 4 1/2 hour trip to Edinburgh.

Bruce had a nice conversation with Moe and Fran, a couple from Southampton, who were traveling to Inverness for a wedding at a castle. Stayed tuned for our next chapter with Edinburgh and the Edinburgh Royal Military Tattoo.