Roadtrip Utrecht: In Belle van Zuylen's footsteps

What do you do when you spend three days driving through Utrecht with a car and a baby? Zoë sought out the most stunning spots, starting in the Utrecht neighborhood of Zuilen. There, she visited the castle of the famous feminist Belle van Zuylen. She then left the city to explore the Vecht River, where she admired villas and estates of noble families, and ended her road trip in the Kromme Rijn region, which might just harbor the most beautiful landscapes in the Netherlands. Today’s focus: Part I—In the Footsteps of Belle van Zuylen.

Belle is everywhere in Uthrecht

I drive along Belle van Zuylen Street, past Laan van Zuylen Veld. A sign directs me to Slot Zuylen before I pass Bistro Belle. I knew Belle van Zuylen was a prominent figure here, but I hadn’t expected every corner to bear her name. A rabbit hops along the castle moat, and I imagine Belle writing in the ivy-covered turret. Her book about Julie, who stacks paintings to escape the confines of aristocratic life, was pulled from circulation by her father, the head of the Knights' Order. Volunteer guide Heleen tells me only two copies remain.

From child to child

During a short tour, Heleen shares stories of the van Zuylen family through generations. She points to a painting of a young lady in tulle seated between two playing children. “This is Anna Elisabeth van Reede. She inherited the castle from her grandfather, Adam van Lockhorst, at the age of four. Her father, Godard van Reede, was a widower deemed unfit to manage the estate due to significant debts. So, her grandfather ensured Anna would inherit the castle, to manage it herself starting at 30. Tragically, she died the year before, leaving her six-year-old son as the heir.” She gestures to another painting of a small, round man. “That’s Belle’s father.”

'I have no talent for subordination'

We walk from the kitchen to the Gobelin Room, the Belle Room, and the Tuyll Room, where members of the Van Tuyll van Serooskerken family gaze from portraits. Heleen is a devoted fan of Belle van Zuylen. “She knew what she wanted and wouldn’t let anyone stop her. Her famous quote is, ‘I have no talent for subordination.’ That was challenging for a woman in the 18th century. Men often courted her, but she had no interest—marriage meant submission to her. While other women embroidered, she wrote books. Eventually, she found a man unafraid of her intellect and moved with him to Switzerland, though she missed these gardens until her dying days,” Heleen remarks, glancing at the moat.

B&B Swaenendrecht

From the castle garden, I walk a hundred meters to B&B Swaenendrecht. Stepping inside feels like stepping into Belle’s world. Breakfast is ready in the vintage-style living room, where Delft Blue china adorns the table and a grand chandelier hangs overhead. In the sprawling study, a cat curls up on a chair. “She’s the boss here,” says hostess Nellie, who instantly falls in love with my baby and takes him for a walk while I enjoy a long shower in my cozy room by the moat. The next morning, I have breakfast overlooking a sparkling fountain with the sun warming my face.

Plan your trip to Uthrecht

• Slot Zuylen Tickets: Adults €16, children €8. CJP or student discounts reduce the price to €13. Order tickets here.
• Events: Regular events, like summer concerts, are held at Slot Zuylen.
• Stay: Book a room at Logement Swaenen-Vecht.
• Dining: Bistro Belle, across from the lodging, requires reservations to secure a spot.
• Explore: Plan your trip to Utrecht Region here.

^{Foto: Slot Zuylen / Євгенія Височина / Unsplash}

This article was created in collaboration with Visit Utrecht Region. Looking for more travel inspiration for your trip to Utrecht? Visit their website for details.