CHIANTI - TUSCANY

10th Oct 2017.
Well good-bye Elba. Nice smooth journey on the ferry again and now to head to the hills of Tuscany to our home for the next 10 days in Ponzano, Chianti at Podera la Casa, a lovely family run small farm and accommodation.
The drive was through lots of winding roads again and some beautiful scenery, lots of little towns dotted throughout the drive. We just take our time and stop for a coffee or two at the many patisseries that are everywhere and so cheap. Usually 2 coffees and donut or cake to share costs about 4-5 Euro. Approx $7-8. And they always taste so good.
Arriving at our unit we are greeted by a very friendly dog and our wonderful host Rosalba. The unit is very comfortable with everything you could need and such a wonderful old building.
We didn't realise how old the town was or the history of the building. The location of Ponzano village halfway between Florence and Siena meant it was often in the middle of the battles between the 2 towns. It was burnt down 3 times. The unit we are staying in was part of an old inn and if travellers arrived too late and the city gates were closed they would stay here for some wine ,women and sleep until the morning!
The views are just amazing and everywhere we drive

there are more hills and vineyards with the fantastic outlooks. A quick walk up the hill to the old church and we find a lovely wine bar/ cafe with a wonderful terrace covered by an old fig tree and views of the hills.
Gary tried a nice local red wine and I had a very nice moscato.
Short walk back to the unit to decide what to cook for dinner and early night I think.

11th Oct 2017. Panzano
We woke to a beautiful sunrise over the hills. It's easy to catch the sunrise with the sun not coming up until about 7.15
Gary headed for the short the walk to the local bakery and came back with some delicious sweet croissants for breakfast. We sat on the garden terrace under the vine covered pergola and enjoyed the wonderful views and how quiet it is.
After breakfast we head to the town of Greve in Chianti with a quick stop along the way at Panzanello winery for some wine tasting and breads with their olive oil. The roads are fairly winding and sometimes narrow but beautiful views around every corner. That is except for all the men in Lycra on pushbikes that seem to have no problem being 2 or 3 wide when there is just enough room for 2 cars to pass.
Arriving in Greve there are many shops selling the local wines and produce, mainly olive oils, cheese and meats. Just what you need for a picnic.The main town piazza is unusual being triangular with

vaulted porticos along 3 sides. They seem to like their wild boar here, there are toy stuffed ones in shops, fridge magnets with them on and their meat products in all the butchers. One shop was amazing with 3 different rooms for cheeses, wines and meat products and all with the old vaulted brick ceilings. We bought some cheese and salami to try later. With all this good food we are really going to have to keep up our walking. We do about 6klm most days and occasionally we have done 10klm for the day. So I will keep trying those great Italian pastries. Lots of tourists in the main towns but I guess it is quieter than the peak summer months. It would not be pleasant in the small towns then. Again the weather is perfect, and the forecast is the same all week.
Back home and another short walk before dinner of homemade burgers and salad not very Italian I know, but really delicious.

12th Oct 2017. Visit to San Gimignano
A bit of a foggy start this morning but that just makes the view more interesting.Today we head off to San Gimignano the town of many towers often seen in tourist brochures. Many little villages and villas along the way again on narrow winding roads, including a large hilltop monastery in the middle of the vineyards just on a dirt road. As San Gimignano still has its fortified walls you must park outside and walk up the steps into the main town centre. The towers are pretty amazing but as there are markets on it spoils the effect

of really being able to see the square and surrounds properly. These markets are out of large vans that have automatic huge canopies attached so when there are quite a few of them it spoils the image of an ancient walled city.
Back to Ponzano and we visitor the neighbours at Le Fonti winery, a small owner operated vineyard and olive groves. After sampling a few of their wines and a chat about the winery and surrounds we buy a nice red to take home. Pity I don't drink it. After a nice coffee and rest we go for a stroll down the small road that divides our hosts property . We collected some chestnuts to roast on the fire and I was so excited to see some deer having a feed amongst the vines.

13th Oct 2017. Visit to Castellina in Chianti.
No rush this morning as we enjoy a quiet breakfast and a walk into town for a quick look in the local shops.We head off just before lunch for the short drive to Castellina in Chianti another ancient hilltop town.It was fortified in the ongoing battles between Siena and Florence and was stormed by troops in 1397.
There are many small cobbled streets and lots of shops aimed at the tourists but with nice quality local foods, wines and hand made goods as well of course the usual fridge magnet and postcard shops.One store just sold lavender goods and was all purple the smell was amazing. We saw a group of men all standing around the back of a van and then realised they were haggling on prices for the

trays of truffles they had inside. Looked nearly like a deal for goods off the back of a truck literally. In the piazza was the church of San Salvatore which has the mummified body of Saint Fausto. His body was moved there from Rome in the 15 century and is in an open glass crypt in the church.
We shared a lovely pizza for lunch, they are so light and tasty here and we are really adjusting to a later lunch and dinner. I think it was the best we have had so far. Again this is town has no access for cars so a walk down the steps to the carpark to head home. As we were leaving a school bus pulled up at the main gate and a dozen or so kid got off and walked off into the laneways. It seemed so strange to see kids going off home in a thousand year old walled City. There are so many stairs everywhere we go, I hope my legs will be looking good after this trip. On the way back to the unit we come across another beautiful old villa with a church which had been turned into a retreat.Back to our home base and before dinner we go for a walk to the other side of the village to see the sunset and came across a small piazza with a group of the elderly locals discussing 'world affairs' as the sun went down.
Back home to cook dinner and relax in front of the fire. It's cool at night getting down to about 12c and about 22c in the day still, just perfect. I can see why people fall in love with this area and never leave.

14th Oct 2017.
Saturday morning and off to Greve in Chianti to the markets. It's quite a busy little market mainly locals getting their fruit and veggies. Lots of home made goods and of course lovely pastries and breads.I pickup a couple of small bottles of homemade lemoncello and some tiny bottles of jam to bring home. It's so hard not be be able to bring so much nice stuff back but we just don't have the room, and we have a lot longer to go yet.
We go for a nice drive through the hills and come across and old castle complex that is now like an up market B&B. There were beautiful gardens and a few peacocks wandering around and we would have liked to have a good look around but there was no one about. We take a slow drive back to our home away from home and have a lovely coffee under the pergola with magnificent views. Oh it's a hard life.

15th Oct 2017.
Off to an earlier start this morning as I am going horse riding just out of Greve in Chianti. It is based near vineyards and it's a perfect, somewhat chilly morning, with the sun out and fog in the valleys. Gary is happy to stay firmly on the ground and go for nice walk while I go for a ride.
The lady who does the rides is Eva, originally from Sweden who studied at the University of Florence in the 90s and ended up staying. There is just myself and Eva riding so it is very personal and she is full of information about the area.

I can't say I wasn't nervous, it's been a while since I've owned a horse but Eva mad me feel comfortable and the horse was very well behaved. The views were just amazing and it was so peaceful to be wandering through vineyards, past a goat farm and quiet country roads, with stunning scenery all around.
It nearly bought a tear tear to my eye, it was a really special experience that I had dreamed of doing. We went past old houses and the owners would wave and say hello, Eva spoke fluent Italian so I guess that helps.
Gary walked through some of the vineyards to get some nice photos at the top of the hill and was accompanied by a friendly labrador who thought it was great fun going for a nice walk. He seems to be attracting all the animals lately. Maybe they just know a sucker, he lets the cats inside when they sit at the door of the unit and one was even on our bed. He said it just followed him.
After the wonderful horse riding we decided to go for a short drive as we had packed a picnic lunch and it was still early. We headed the long way home through small villages and lots more wineries. Most small family run wineries sell the wine and oil direct so there are many places to buy from.
Back home and a nice restful afternoon sitting in the garden and admiring the view with a coffee. It amazing to be sitting next to an ancient watchtower that just happens to be in your back garden.

There is a tiny school opposite where we are staying and apart from when the kids come out about 4.00pm there is very little noise at all. The people in most shops and that we see in the streets are friendly even if we are very poor on our Italian. It seems very relaxed, contented way of life. We very rarely put the tv on, something we do without thinking at home. Off to Florence tomorrow, hope my sore horse riding legs can stand the walking.

16th Oct 2017. Visit to Florence
The drive to Florence is fairly quiet until we get closer to the city but still not chaotic as I imagined. You are not allowed to drive into the main centre unless you have a resident permit or are staying in a hotel there. We park at the large carpark overlooking the city and the views are fantastic. It is so clear, last time we were here it rained constantly and we didn't look around too much as our feet were soaking.
It is such a well preserved city and there are so many elaborately decorated buildings and cobbled laneways. We came to the Piazza Della Signoria where they were filming a new film about Michelangelo and had all the area in front of the Palazzo Vecchio is fenced off and covered in sand with a few old carts and bits and pieces scattered around. They had just finished filming.
There are lots of tour groups everywhere, and heaps of people with their annoying selfie sticks, would like to stick them somewhere

Just for a bit more punishment to my legs after horse riding we decide to wait in queue to climb the bell tower of the Florence Cathedral. The stairs are quite steep and it's very narrow only one way up and down the 415 steps so it can get squeezy going passed people. The view is amazing and going back down is much easier though I was glad to be out in the fresh air. It's a warm 26c here today. Time for lunch in a little side lane and we shared another very nice pizza.
After a nice rest for lunch we headed to the leather market for a quick look around and browse in a few more shops. We walked back along the river on the opposite side to the steps to the carpark. I really didn't think my legs were going to make it.
Definitely time for another sit down and a gelato with stunning views across the city.
The area above the main old city is really nice with so many parks, beautiful old villas and treed streets. The GPS decided to takes us down every tiny back street and residential area but I guess it's interesting to see the local area, it's just the drivers are a bit crazy when the scooters zap in and out from both sides of the car. Gary doesn't seem too fazed by it, it's just me that it scares the hell out of.
Back to the unit to be greeted by the friendly dog and one of the cats, now time for a coffee. I've never drank so much coffee maybe it helps the nerves on our drives.

17th Oct 2017. Visit to Volpaia
Another nice slow start to the day, after doing boring chores like cleaning up and doing a load of washing , we take the short stroll into the shops for a nice cappuccino in the tiny town square. The locals are out and about and they will stand at the cafe counters to have their coffee and pastry then go on their way to work or outside to chat. Our coffees and nice eclair costs 4 euro about $6.
On the recommendation from Eva from horse riding, we decide to have a nice drive to the tiny hilltop town of Volpaia.
This road turns out to be a windy dirt road through the forest. Along the way we come across a very old timber yard with 4 huge old wine barrels just sitting in the side of the yard. They would have held about 10,000 litres. I thought they would make a great backyard sauna though you might pass out wine the wine residue.

We are so glad we took the drive, it's a lovely little village with just a few shops a couple of restaurants, large church and winery of the same name. We have a look in the wine shop and found that they do a cellar tour and the friendly barman says he can take us straight away. Great no other tourists.
He is very informative on the process of the winemaking and the history of the town. There are pipes under the roads that takes the wine from the huge cellar barrels to the small bottling building. He also informs us the there are cellars

under many of the buildings including the church. All the cellars and other buildings in the village where part of the fortified castle and surrounds. It's classed as a medium sized winery selling about 200,000 bottle per year. It is very interesting to see the different processes and the beautiful old vaulted cellar with bottles from all their vintages going back to
their first in 1968. The first records that mention the town and castle was in 1170, so it was built before then sometime.
Gary buys a nice bottle of red after sampling some of their products and I couldn't resist buying a small bottle that is an air freshener diffuser that actually has some of the wine it, sounds weird but smells quite nice a bit like musk.
Opposite is a lovely little cafe / bar called Bar- Ucci and he have a nice panini for lunch. The lovely waitress recommends the apple cake so I have to try some and it is divine, the owner tells me her mother makes it. So good. I am sorry my cooking wont be that nice when we get back to the unit.
After a nice dinner it's time to relax in front of the fire.

18 th Oct 2017. Visit to Siena
We get an earlier start to the day to head into Siena, we take the back roads as the route to the motorway is a bit longer and out of the way. The road is pretty good, still winding and sometimes narrow but pretty smooth. There are a few people

heading to work but certainly no peak hour rush. As we get into the outskirts of Siena it's time to look for parking as again you must walk into the main centre of this large, walled city.
It's market day so the parking is a bit harder to come by but we find something and then just have to work out the parking meter. It doesn't take notes,we didn't have enough coins and the card option doesn't seem to be working. We walk to another meter further along that take notes and then we are on our way.
There are many small cobbled roads and laneways and the main piazza del Campo, is fan shaped with lots of buildings made of red brick. This is where the famous Palio di Siena horse race takes place.
There are lots of restaurants around the edge of the piazza and the typical tourists shops. We find a nice little cafe a few streets back for a coffee and cake and pay a third of the cost of the ones on the piazza. This is something you will find in most tourist type towns, you just have to walk a little way away from all the tourists traps.
While we sit and enjoy our coffee we get a video call from Brendan, Jane and Elka, she seems a little confused to see and hear us but keeps waving at us. That makes me homesick already, would love to be able to hug her.
Maybe I won't video call Ziggy then.
Siena and Florence were always in constant battles lasting over hundreds of years, with Florence eventually winning. Personal view I think Florence is a prettier city but very crowded, I guess

mainly with the views of the river and bridges. Siena is walled hilltop town but more ancient looking streets and buildings and the cathedral there is really amazing far more lavish than Florence's.
Talking of streets , we ventured down one cobbled street to find an amazing shop called Nino and Friends selling chocolates, biscuits and other treats and as soon as we walked in they were giving us samples of everything and course it was all wonderful except maybe the chocolate with lemoncello cream inside it was so strong it nearly burnt our mouths. We did buy the biscuits though.
On our way back home we stopped at a huge Coop store, this is the only supermarket chain we have found so far and they range from little ones like in Panzano to mega stores selling everything. The range of wines and spirits in all of them is amazing and the prices so low, pity we can't bring much back. Back to our unit and lots of time for a nice rest before walking to a little restaurant in town. We thought we better try one for dinner before we leave . We go to
Ristorante Oltre Il Giardino and we were not disappointed. Friendly service and delicious meals. It would be great in summer on the lovely vine covered terrace with views over the hills and vineyards. A nice walk home in the cool air and it's time to hit the bed.

19th Oct 2017. Last day in Panzano.
Just a quiet day today, we start with our regular coffee and cake in the little town square. It so nice and so cheap it's hard to resist.
We take a short drive to a hill overlooking Panzano where there is a old monastery, Pieve di San Leolino. The current building was built in the 12th century and the site was occupied before that. The view is great and it's so quiet no one else around. We drive a bit further along some dirt roads with great views again and stop in a little family run winery for a quick wine tasting. Pity I don't drink red wine but Gary enjoys trying all the different varieties. Off back to the unit. We need to pack our bags and sort the car out before our drive to Rimini on the Adriatic coast.
The last 2 photos are the difference in colour of the vines getting their Autumn leaves in the 10 days we stayed there.